1962 Superhawk Restoration: Here I go

[Spargett]

When you say "everything" are you referring to the inside of the crankcase cover, or the chain/sproket/stator, etc?

What's a good lubricant for this area?

I'd recomend that you completely disassemble everything, and give it a proper cleaning and lubrication. Make sure to re-install the 5/16 ball bearing in to the clutch lifter thread.

davomoto

[jleewebb]

Hi Scott, I think we're all admiring your enthusiasm. Hope you won't mind a few unsolicited suggestions. #1, using the seach function above will help you find answers to many questions that have already been answered. Frinstance, search for "shocks," then go down to thread titled "chrome shocks anyone?" and you'll find one very bad review and one lukewarm one on those Thai shocks, plus some other alternatives. If yours are functional you might consider staying with them for awhile. Correct shocks are tough, I'm looking at $350 or so getting the "right" ones.

As another example, arrived at by a different method (searched LoudMouse's posts) I found that he first answered your question about breather vents and air cleaners on 9-1-05. And a number of times since then.

Re tank badges: I don't know about all '62 cb77s but mine came with "Dream 300" tank badges. Your frame number is only a few thousand younger than mine. There's a fellow who's just started making repro "dream 300" badges, can't find his email right now. If yours are original, just for later bike, and really worth $300, you could get $50 correct repros and net $250 for other stuff.

A couple more unsolicited opinions. A cb just doesn't look right without the "flipper" on the rear fender. Rubber part comes up on ebay pretty often, brackets (polished metal, unfortunetely, not chrome) are available from retrobikes. Also, if you wantta make LM happy and be "correct," paint your tailight bracket silver when you do rear fender. You might want to search this topic as well, there's been lots of discussion. Guess we'll have to forgive you the chrome front fork covers, they look too pretty to repaint just to be "correct."

All that said, I know the experts enjoy gnawing on tough problems like your cl kickstarter, and are happy to help. Hope I'm not out of line putting in my two cents worth here. Nice pix on Flickr, btw. some bordering on "art." Thanks, Lee

[davomoto]

I meant to disassemble the kickstarter and the clutch lifter from the outer cover, and clean and regrease those. I use Bel Ray waterproof grease on just about everything. The other stuff can be cleaned as well, but not really as important to do so. I aslo like to make sure the greasae nipples are clear for future greasing without removing cover.

davomoto

[Spargett]

Excellent info. Thanks Davo and jleewebb, I don't mind any suggestions at all. I'm here to learn, not to judge. Thanks for the info as well. P.S. Man, those badges have seen some action!

I've been ridiculously busy with work this week, so haven't make the progress I was looking for on a few things. I've also been waiting on a parts, some of which have just arrived (heavy duty tank repair kit). I've heard BB's are great for shaking around inside to break anything loose. Of which, I do not have. I'm wondering how well a handful or two of change would work.

I swore I ordered the "heavy duty" kit, which includes a stripper. After patiently waiting 8 days already, I'm not really eager to wait for another shipment. Do you guys know what kind of stripper they ship, or one that will work just as well?



I'm off to spend the weekend celebrating a birthday in Tahoe. But between us, I'd rather be making progress on the bike. Looking forward to a fresh start next week!

I meant to disassemble the kickstarter and the clutch lifter from the outer cover, and clean and regrease those. I use Bel Ray waterproof grease on just about everything. The other stuff can be cleaned as well, but not really as important to do so. I aslo like to make sure the greasae nipples are clear for future greasing without removing cover.

davomoto

[Spargett]

This is the first time I used Mothers Mag and Aluminum polish, wow. You can really see the difference a little elbow grease makes. Here's stages of polishing listed:

Bottom Left: Untouched
Top Left: Scrubbed with steel wool and engine degreaser
Top Right: 1st round of polish
Bottom Right: 2 round of polish.

I start of scrubbing each valve with steel wool and engine degreaser, followed by a round of polishing by hand with Mothers Mag & Aluminum polish. I then follow through once more polishing & buffing with a variable speed rotary tool.

You can really tell which valve covers were facing forwards, taking 47 years of road abuse consisting of every little thing imaginable being shot at it.




A little polish goes a long way. I used Mother's Mag & Aluminum polish. Works great on the raw aluminum, such as carbs or valve covers, etc. It won't really do anything for chrome. The directions actual state not to use it on chrome. Naturally these aren't perfect again, but certainly significantly better looking. The only downside is the polishing really brings out any imperfections. Such as numerous signs of the previous owner laying down the bike, but failing to ever mention it.

I purchased a nice variable speed rotary tool for all of this, but I found myself quickly reverting to hand polishing for the majority of "larger" work.

You'll see I left the carbs alone. I've seen other people polish them on here, which is fine for their projects, but I'm just not really a fan of that look. Something just strikes me odd see carbs that appear to be chromed.

I tried to clean up the valve cover a bit, but MAN was that thing tough. I'm not really sure the best way to go about it sans sand blaster. It make me sure I'd rather just paint the engine case. Though I imagine I'd still have to clean it really well to do so anyway. Really not looking forward to all of that.

[Spargett]

Here I re-rebuilt my carbs. I've picked up some knowledge since the last first time I did it. Polished up some of the choke control pieces. Reset the float hight (22.5mm). From what I understand it is to be measured right before the tongue of the floats touch the pin in the jet. I suspect improper float adjustment was one of the contributing factors to fouling my plugs.

Lubed up the choke controls for smooth operation. Took out aftermarket Keyster jets, put back in originals.

There seems to be alot of criticism over the Keyster (terrible name for a company) aftermarket jets and needles. Since my originals were in pretty good condition I figured I'd play it safe and throw those back in.

New floats (via classic honda restoration) are looking good along with new bowl gaskets. There was a decent amount of corrosion on the choke slides. I took those out, then cleaned and polished them. I then disassembled the choke levers then cleaned and lubed the moving parts. Now the operation of opening and closing feels much better.

Before it really felt like a terrible grinding of metal on metal each time you open and closed it. More force than should have been necessary was also required.

[Spargett]

I thought I'd throw a few photos of her half taken apart since I haven't had alot of content to update with. I'm sure a few of you haven't see these.

I live in a flat in downtown Sacramento, of which doesn't have it's own garage. So beforehand I was wrenching on the bike parked in the street, fighting against daylight and the cold (freezing lately). A neighbor was so kind as to offer me use of his garage since his truck doesn't fit in it anyway. SUCH a lifesaver. The holiday spirit in true effect.



The bike almost looks clean here ; )



Bike disassembled and waiting for parts/tools.