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CB77 gas tank

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dannysvintagespeed
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Joined: Mon Oct 15, 2007 8:56 am
Location: Zanesville,Oh

CB77 gas tank

Post by dannysvintagespeed » Fri Sep 05, 2008 8:26 pm

I need a tank, cb77, chrome and rubber,petcock not important.Thanks...Dan

e3steve
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Joined: Fri Oct 31, 2003 1:38 pm
Location: Mallorca, Spain & Warsash, UK

Post by e3steve » Sat Sep 06, 2008 4:13 am

What year/frame nº? The crossover pipe was removed at CB77-1052488.

Trawl eBay; tanks are offered frequently.

Good luck.

dannysvintagespeed
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Posts: 20
Joined: Mon Oct 15, 2007 8:56 am
Location: Zanesville,Oh

cb77 gas tank needed

Post by dannysvintagespeed » Sat Sep 06, 2008 8:05 am

I'm using a cb 450 petcock without a crossover right now,so if I can find one with or without the crossover,that would be fine. I need to find another tank since I have a leak around the cap that will not seal and ruined the paint.The filler hole was damaged at one time,and I can't seem to get the cap to seal no matter what I do. I'm throwing in the towel and just going to replace the tank.

denfam4
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Joined: Wed Aug 17, 2005 8:15 am

Post by denfam4 » Fri Sep 12, 2008 11:18 am

Hey Dan, I have an extra used tank. It's not dented but does need cleaned inside and sealed. Email me for more info. By the way were not to far away from one another.

eyedragaknee
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Cap seal leaking

Post by eyedragaknee » Fri Sep 12, 2008 8:58 pm

I have a CL77 tank that was all boogered up. Bought a weld in bung and going to re do the whole thing.

Something to think about. Careful with the welding sparks though :)
Attachments
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e3steve
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Joined: Fri Oct 31, 2003 1:38 pm
Location: Mallorca, Spain & Warsash, UK

Post by e3steve » Sat Sep 13, 2008 4:27 am

Something to think about. Careful with the welding sparks though :)
Flush the tank once with tap water; twice if you're unsure. Just fill it to the brim in a sink or with a hose and drain it; it's the fumes that initially ignite and then cause the liquid to combust, not the liquid itself. The water will purge the fumes. You'll still be able to smell the petrol but, as you probably notice, you can smell it on your hands for hours afterwards, no matter how many times you wash them!

Once the repair is finished, purge the water with about a ½-pint of WD40 (you can buy it in non-aerosol containers -- try marine suppliers; marine techs use it in a plant-type sprayer for winterising engines): bung both exits, pour in the WD40 (or similarly-superlight oil), cap the tank and give it a good slosh around. Do it twice to ensure the purging of all traces of water -- you don't want that in your carb(s)!

Gas-up & go..... The motor might smoke a tad for the first tankful.

eyedragaknee
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tank going bang!!!

Post by eyedragaknee » Sat Sep 13, 2008 7:25 am

I was giving caution to the original poster in case he wanted to attempt a new bung. I did all that before cutting the old bung out of it.

Good advice for everybody.

This one is already welded in place. I will pressure test the whole thing before paint and finishing.

On another note: To pressure test the tank, I took a 1/8" X 1" steel plate and drilled 3 holes in it to match the petcock holes. I then took a section of bicycle inner tube with the presta stem still in it and put the stem through the center hole and used the 2 outer holes for the bolts. The rubber makes a natural seal and it is cheap. You can put a non venting cap on the top and use the bicycle pump to air it up without a compressor or risk blowing the tank apart.

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