timing chain adjustment question
Okay, just got in.
Cam chain tensioner: Loosened the nut and bolt and the rod would only move with a lot of pressure. I pushed it in manually and tightened it back up. Next on the list -- take apart the assembly and get everything freely moving and tension the chain right. Valve adjustment: Got the front two done, but I didn't have anything labeled T or LT -- just a line on the cam and a line on the plate. Was still able to figure out the right positions and got the gaps set -- they needed to be loosened a couple turns according to my feeler gauge. Hope I'm doing it right; the valve is all the way at the bottom when I'm measuring. Still have to do the rear two, but it looks like I need to take the tank off to really get in there I think). Timing: Followed your tuning recipe and got the timing perfect. It was missing and sputtering a little and now it's purring. THANK YOU! -phil You can also have a whining noise from the cam chain being too tight, this will also cause premature wear and deterioration of the tensioner wheel and its axle. The stem on the tensioner should move freely with the bolt loosened as LM stated. Make a mark on the stem near the housing, turn the engine over, and you should be able to see the stem move in and out on its own. If it does not move at all, there's something in a bind, making it difficult to obtain the proper adjustment. It's not difficult to remove the tensioner assembly (four bolts), inspect the components, repair and reinstall. Regards, Chase
Alright, then I'll take the whole assembly apart and make sure everything is freely moving. With the bolt loosened, I did see a tiny bit of moverment (like 1 or 2 mm) when I cranked it over, but I'm guessing I should see a lot more? Thanks, -phil
hi guys, i found this in an old dealer manual(excuse the old translation)
it says to make the adjustment when the crank is at bottom dead center.
Last edited by bigscooter on Thu Jun 19, 2008 11:18 am, edited 1 time in total.
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