new to forum need helpAir screw should be turned out 1 1/8 th turns(I'm talking a complete revolution and 1/8 turn).Should not varie too much from that."5" turns is way too much.Idle screw should be easy to get turns on, I can't remember where mine is right now.Sounds like you are still very rich.Are o-rings in descent condition and carb spacer on correctly??Did you check your valve adjustments?Did you try moving needle clip up one notch to #2 slot(needle could be worn)?Float level correct?Like jim said-is slow jet clear.It is a pretty small hole and somewtimes hard to clear out.
updateThankyou , this might sound dumb, but know nothing about valve adjustment. or slide needle and clip. the bike has about 9000 miles on it, so i didnt think the slide would have been worn, but im new to this i will try any suggestions. i appreciate all the help.
It sounds as if you have the problem in hand. My 2 cents worth is to also check if you have a sticky valve. Your symptons are simular to a cb160 I had that sat for years. When I put it back on the road it would run fine then drop to one cylinder. But would come back with 2 on a sparatic basis. I put a sticky valve additive from Advanced auto parts and cleared it right up.
Re: new to forum need helpHave you checked to see that the points open at "F"?. ..................lm
RIDE IT DON'T HIDE IT!
updateI have the points set at 0.14, high point on cam. What does F mean? how do I find F?
also I am thinking that maybe i dont have the float right. What is float measurement and and how do i measure to get it right. I sure do appreciate the help from all you guys.
Re: updateThe CARB PROBLEMS are in direct proportion the MISS ADJUSTMENT OF THE POINTS is an old adage which is ignored/not realized by many bike owners. The points MUST open at EXACTLY "F" on the rotor. You MUST know that the coil fires when the points OPEN and that has to happen when the rotor "F" and the marker on the stater are IN LINE. ..............lm
RIDE IT DON'T HIDE IT!
|