Will do. I had pretty much resigned to the idea of replacing the slide because it looks too scratched up. I've been keeping my eyes peeled for a parts bike to purchase, but I'm not going to hold my breath. If something comes along in due time, I'll consider snatching it up. I expect to be several months away from the bike hitting the road again, so there's time.
What source do you recommend for new slides? Are after market available? Or will I be trying to source good used or NOS slides?
For the carb kits, I seem to recall some folks on here recommending http://www.olypen.com/retro/ for carb rebuild kits. Is this the preferred place to purchase?
I remembered a question that came to mind yesterday after removing the head covers and looking at the tappet adjusters and rocker arms. All of the rocker arms felt pretty solid when I wiggled them, except for the left side exhaust rocker, which wiggled laterally. Is there a way to tighten or otherwise adjust the lateral play in the rocker arm? If not, is this a sign that I need to perform a top-end overhaul?
One last question thing: the left side of the swing arm has a dimple or dent about 2/3 of the way to the rear between the pivot and the rear axle. Are these swing arms supposed to be completely round or is the dimple part of the design? I don't see the dimple on the right side of the swing arm, so I am thinking the former is true and this may be a result of the bike being dropped. This may also explain why I wasn't able to adequately adjust the rear axle to be square. I'll snap a photo next time I'm working on the bike.
Thanks again. This place has been very helpful. I think I need to give the search function a rest...
Cheers!
Start of a 1963 CB77 rebuild
If you can't find the slide in time I have them.
That is a good place for the kit but I recommend you order and use the CB77 one with your CL77. Remove and look at the ends which contact the valve for flat spots. If they aren't domed them you need new ones. The sping arm is round all the way. ...................lm
Thanks LM.
I'll get in touch if I don't find any donors by the time I'm ready to tune the engine. I have a CB77, so I'll be getting the CB77 carb kits anyway. I wouldn't mind a CL77, and if I do, I'll be sure to use the CB77 carb kits on that also. I'll pull the tappet adjusting screws and check if they are flat or doomed... ah I mean domed. Should I be concerned that I can wiggle the one rocker arm while the others feel solidly in place? Looks like I'll be looking for a donor bike with a good swing arm also. Cheers!
Don't wory about the wiggle. ........lm
What a nice day today. The temperature is still in the 60s right now. I set up in the garage and removed the engine from the frame. All of the bolts came out fairly easily, which was a nice things. I put some labels on the charging system wires before I disconnected them and dropped the engine.
I removed the rear wheel and remembered that I wanted to take a picture of the dent in the swing arm. See attached picture. I've seen a couple of swing arms on ebay recently, but I'll keep on the lookout and perhaps a more complete parts bike or basket case. One thing that I noticed today while taking the starter off of the front of the engine is that the chain seems loose. The lower portion of the chain was resting on part of the casting. I'm guessing a new starter chain is in my future. Once our current credit card period closes, I plan to order Bill Silver's CD and get into the transmission. Cheers!
Alright, I finally had a chance to split the cases this afternoon. This was a bit more difficult than I had expected, but I carefully removed the primary drive, clutch, and stator. All of the case bolts came out fairly easily as well. Then I tried for quite a while to carefully tap the cases apart. I tried a gentle prying here and there, then some more tapping with a rubber mallet, more gentle prying, etc etc.
After about an hour of fiddling, the cases finally split, but I couldn't seem to get them apart more than 1/2". Some more gently coercion and the bottom case pulled off completely. I think the lower case may have been stuck on the starter gear that is on the crankshaft (rotor). I think that I found the broken kickstarter pawl, spring, and pin. I also found another piece of mangled metal about the same size as the pawl. It appears to be aluminum. I will take some photos to post. This particular piece was stuck (via oil) to the crank, while the pawl, spring, and pin were in the transmission side of the case. I'm not sure if this is something I should worry about too much or if I should go searching for where it broke off from. I played with the gears and checked out how everything shifts. Everything seemed pretty smooth, except when I push the kickstarter spindle all the way in, it binds against the inside of the upper case. There is obvious wear marks and burrs where the end of the kickstarter was hitting the upper case. Looks like I need to replace the kick spindle bushing as well. If the flanged edge of the kick spindle bushing was thicker, the kick spindle wouldn't hit the case. I have yet to measure the play in the kick spindle shaft, but it seems that it is excessive. I'll post some pictures shortly so you all can comment. Cheers! I mentioned that I want to 'X' the gears while I have the cases split. My question is, how do I know if the gears are already 'X'ed or if they are in the stock configuration?
The kickstarter pawl looks to have a piece broken off, but having never seen a new pawl, I'm not sure if that the pawl is supposed to look like that. The six pieces of aluminum that I found in the crankcase were of various sizes, but one piece was quite large, so I am a little concerned about that. I removed the transmission main and counter shafts, but I did not remove the crankshaft, nor do I plan to. I didn't see any obvious place inside the crankcase where these pieces would have broken off. How serious is this and how much should I worry if I don't completely disassemble the engine and search for trouble? I don't plan to rebuild the engine at this time, but I would like to do that some point in the future. The end of the kickstarter stopper bolt shows obvious wear where the edge of the low gear was rubbing due to the apparent wearing of the kickstarter spindle end bushing. OK, here we go with some pictures. Kickstarter spindle end bushing. Kickstarter stopper bolt. Pawl, pawl spring, pin, and six pieces of aluminum recovered from the crankcase. Transmission in its current state.
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