engine build - slowly but surely

[Tim Miller]

I angle the cylinder head using adjustable fixture plate. True, to go through all this effort I normally install fresh guides that's had a tapered reamer bored after installation. What makes this so trick is the pilot is captured by special collet holder above the cutting head. Of course you know the rest of the story.... being ridgid is always king.

You might look into cb160 or better yet cb50r for a alloy front fender option.

Tim

Dick,

I do a fair amount of head work on the mill using www.new3acut.com cutting system, which is similar to Neway but with all 3 angles in one shot. By using the bounce spring under the cutting head it illuminates chatter when letting off the seat. Once you get the cutters setup it produces a perfect .050" wide seat everytime. It takes a little to indicate it all in but the results and concentricity are excellent! You might be able to sneak by with hand held T handle but deflection is more than likely. Of course when you pull a vacuum it will tell you that.

Myself being a machinist/welder I can really appreciate all the dedication and time that you put into your build. Thumbs up to you!

What's next?

Tim

Do you set the cylinder head on an angle, or tilt the head of the machine?
T-handle deflection must be considered - for my finishing cuts, I would ink the seats with a Sharpie, and go a little more gingerly; having good valve guides are very important, as the guides bell out somewhat with use, and can affect how straight the cutter pilot is.
I agree, getting that .050" seat width with the New Way can involve reworking the 60 and 30 degree angles.
What's next? perhaps fitting a stock CB fender to the CX forks - don't like the gap I presently have, as the CX used a 3.25 x 19, and my front wheel/tire is the stock 2.75 x 18. The entire front end is CX 500, the steering stem, both clamps, tubes and lower forks. The steering stem/clamps fit the CB neck well, with only a slight spacer made to take up a slightly longer CX stem.

[LOUD MOUSE]

I've done many valve seats in these heads and have yet found any that will take a 3 angle seat.
Please tell me where you get the 60 degree angle and still do a 45 degree.
All the heads I've done won't take the middle degree cut and then the 45 degree.
I find the New Way to be simple as you only turn the cutter a bit at a time as the site shows how to do the cut. Like any engine work "don't get in a hurry". .....................lm

Dick,

I do a fair amount of head work on the mill using www.new3acut.com cutting system, which is similar to Neway but with all 3 angles in one shot. By using the bounce spring under the cutting head it illuminates chatter when letting off the seat. Once you get the cutters setup it produces a perfect .050" wide seat everytime. It takes a little to indicate it all in but the results and concentricity are excellent! You might be able to sneak by with hand held T handle but deflection is more than likely. Of course when you pull a vacuum it will tell you that.

Myself being a machinist/welder I can really appreciate all the dedication and time that you put into your build. Thumbs up to you!

What's next?

Tim

Do you set the cylinder head on an angle, or tilt the head of the machine?
T-handle deflection must be considered - for my finishing cuts, I would ink the seats with a Sharpie, and go a little more gingerly; having good valve guides are very important, as the guides bell out somewhat with use, and can affect how straight the cutter pilot is.
I agree, getting that .050" seat width with the New Way can involve reworking the 60 and 30 degree angles.
What's next? perhaps fitting a stock CB fender to the CX forks - don't like the gap I presently have, as the CX used a 3.25 x 19, and my front wheel/tire is the stock 2.75 x 18. The entire front end is CX 500, the steering stem, both clamps, tubes and lower forks. The steering stem/clamps fit the CB neck well, with only a slight spacer made to take up a slightly longer CX stem.

[Tim Miller]

Going with oversize valve gives room for the 60......

Tim

[LOUD MOUSE]

There ya go.
I only restore to stock. ..................lm

Going with oversize valve gives room for the 60......

Tim

[Dick Eastman]

I've done many valve seats in these heads and have yet found any that will take a 3 angle seat.
Please tell me where you get the 60 degree angle and still do a 45 degree.
All the heads I've done won't take the middle degree cut and then the 45 degree.
I find the New Way to be simple as you only turn the cutter a bit at a time as the site shows how to do the cut. Like any engine work "don't get in a hurry". .....................lm

I agree, the 60 takes minimal cutting, and I do it last, after seeing where the 45 witnesses the valve. I had a lot of pitted valve seats, and had to drop them all down about 1 mm. I also had to make some 1 mm shims to fit between the valve spring cup and the head so I didn't reduce the valve spring tension in the closed position, speaking of which, I made 4 tools to check valve spring tension: a 5/8" dia bar cut to 1.358" lg and one to 1.083" lg. These were set inside the outer spring; the inner spring stops were tubing cut to 1.240" and .965" long, the springs setting inside the tubing. I was quite surprised to see how much variation in readings I found. The springs were from engines with 2400 miles to 17000 miles - had four sets to check and chose the set closest to factory specs.

[Dick Eastman]

Going with oversize valve gives room for the 60......

Tim

Just so I know, who sells the o/s valves, and how much larger are they? Thanks for the tip on fenders - will check out.

[G-Man]

I get mine here, but I have seen them for sale on US eBay at about twice the price.

http://www.gsvalves.co.uk/assets/recmas ... alogue.pdf

G

Going with oversize valve gives room for the 60......

Tim

Just so I know, who sells the o/s valves, and how much larger are they? Thanks for the tip on fenders - will check out.