engine oil

[G-Man]

And you're all still alive?

G

Brewsky

They're still happily tidying up the mess that we all made 40 years before that......

G

I changed the oil in the corner of a field in France once on a 2000 mile vacation.....

G

quote]

Here's hoping the statute of limitations has passed on the violation!

Yep,

The recycling program in my neighborhood consisted of re-purposing used pcb-laden transformer oil as dust palliative on the dirt roads in front of the houses!..... GENIUS!

[brewsky]

And you're all still alive?
G
quote]

Well, at least I am.......I think......although I do wonder if I'm actually in an alternative universe sometimes!

Back to the original subject, I do remember the oil debate in the '60's being Pennsylvania vs Gulf coast based oils.

I remember my chemical engineer neighbor telling me the Pennsylvania (paraffin) based oils, like Pennzoil and Quaker State were better suited for hotter-running air cooled engines, and the Gulf coast oils (Gulf, Texaco, etc) better for water cooled applications.

So the debate will probably march on for another 50 years,,,,,

................TO BE CONTINUED!

[G-Man]

Brewsky

Yes - we've had all sorts of 'discussions' over here. My Uncle swore by a graphite loaded oil by a company called Filtrate. There big thing was cold starts ( where most of the corrosion / wear happens). Not sure how that would work with modern filters.

More recently, there seems to be a flare up of problems related to synthetics and corrosion issues in two-strokes stored over winter.

I have a little theory about the copper plating that Honda used during carburizing (hardening) contributing to corrosion in cranks that have stood a long while. Copper on steel has the opposite effect to zinc and the steel becomes sacrificial.... That combined with acids from combustion suggests to me that we should 'store' our bikes with fresh oil in the sump.

Here's to the next 50 years of lively 'discussion'.

G

And you're all still alive?
G
quote]

Well, at least I am.......I think......although I do wonder if I'm actually in an alternative universe sometimes!

Back to the original subject, I do remember the oil debate in the '60's being Pennsylvania vs Gulf coast based oils.

I remember my chemical engineer neighbor telling me the Pennsylvania (paraffin) based oils, like Pennzoil and Quaker State were better suited for hotter-running air cooled engines, and the Gulf coast oils (Gulf, Texaco, etc) better for water cooled applications.

So the debate will probably march on for another 50 years,,,,,

................TO BE CONTINUED!

[masonmart]

Sorry gents, I didn't mean Honda recommended changing a straight 30 grade non-detergent oil at 300 miles only if that I were to put such a relatively poor quality lubricant into my own bike on which I don't do many miles, I'd change the oil every 300 miles as all of my friends do and swear by it. I personally use classic 20W50 or the 10W40 that is recommended for my Kawasaki Z900. Seriously, monograde is not right for most temperate locations ranges and non-detergent is just not right for a bike that doesn't have a good filtration system. Modern multigrade oils are just far better than monogrades and synthetic oils are the best of all. If I did more miles and all year round I'd use a 5W30 fully synthetic because that suits the temp of the UK.

I'd guess that most change their oil at low intervals anyway so the impact of using low quality oil is low but my own policy is quality, quality, quality; not at any cost but given the small amount we put in the CB77 quality is cheap.

Best wishes

[hondadreamca77]

Castrol 30W.....


This subject is still being discussed, really?????

[LOUD MOUSE]

Would you say VALVOLINE 30W ND is LOW QUALITY?. ............lm

Sorry gents, I didn't mean Honda recommended changing a straight 30 grade non-detergent oil at 300 miles only if that I were to put such a relatively poor quality lubricant into my own bike on which I don't do many miles, I'd change the oil every 300 miles as all of my friends do and swear by it. I personally use classic 20W50 or the 10W40 that is recommended for my Kawasaki Z900. Seriously, monograde is not right for most temperate locations ranges and non-detergent is just not right for a bike that doesn't have a good filtration system. Modern multigrade oils are just far better than monogrades and synthetic oils are the best of all. If I did more miles and all year round I'd use a 5W30 fully synthetic because that suits the temp of the UK.

I'd guess that most change their oil at low intervals anyway so the impact of using low quality oil is low but my own policy is quality, quality, quality; not at any cost but given the small amount we put in the CB77 quality is cheap.

Best wishes

[masonmart]

Would you say VALVOLINE 30W ND is LOW QUALITY?. ............lm

No LM, what I'm saying is that using mono grade oil is just a poor quality choice for any bike. Also that using a non-detergent oil is a poor quality choice and that not moving with developments in lubricant technology is a low quality choice too. The best quality choice for any bike is to use modern oils but we have to moderate our choice based on mileage, etc. The last thing we should do is use 30 grade oil because it says to do so on our 1963 bikes. The CB77 has no design features that would preclude the use of modern oils.

Best wishes, MM