I would think it's understandable if it dies when closing the choke. If it's already running rich normally (choke plate open, or choke "off"/down), closing the choke plate (up, what you might think of choke "on") cuts off even more air and increase the fuel/air ratio even further. At this point it may be too wet to ignite, flooded. Another possibility: you could be dealing with a worn main jet/needle.
As far as the screw goes... on a PW22, is that an "air screw" or "idle fuel screw?" From what I've read, with an air screw, out is leaner. With an idle fuel screw, in is leaner. I can't seem to find the definitive answer though. Can someone (LM?) confirm how that screw operates on this particular carb?
Rich or Lean - I am confusedI had trouble with mine a couple weeks ago. It quit on me at a stop sign. Luckily I was able to start it up and get it another block home where it died again. I couldn't get it restarted. When I pulled the plugs out they were completely fouled. New plugs, cleaned up the points, got it started again. One lap around block and the plugs were gone again. It was running way too rich. Tried for a couple hours and couldn't get it started. It had a spark but not real strong. I charged the battery, installed a new set of points, and new plugs. I still couldn't get it started. I was down to the coil and the condenser. The coil was much easier to get to so I pulled the coil off my other bike and tried it. I wired everything up, left one plug out to check the spark, hit the starter. It fired right up and ran on one cylinder. Problem solved.
Check to see if you have a nice strong spark. Erich Thanks everybody,
And by the way, you guys are quick today, I appreciate it. What you guys said really helped me out. LM - I went back to Silver's materials to reread his airscrew setting procedures. I read somewhere that to set the airscrew, you 1st set it 1 1/8 turns out and then turn it out more until the engine faltered. Then turn it in until it faltered again. Finally you would leave it in the middle of those 2 points. But when I looked at his engine restoration guide it said to set it around 1 turn out, then tune it for best throttle response. I give that a try. Obscure - You made me realize that I am a idiot. I went and got my second carb and looked at it while reading your post. I can't believe I missed this. I had the whole choke thing backwards. I thought normal operation was supposed to happen with the choke in the closed (or lever up) position. Obviously it is the other way around. Duh. The choke problem never existed. It was just me. Can you believe they let me fly airplanes? As far as the air screw goes, I am talking about the screw called 'Air Screw' in the parts fiche. Honda calls the other one the throttle stop screw. Erich - I originally had problems with no spark which I traced to a broken wire on the coil. I have a spark now, how good it is, I don't really know. I'll have to read up more to learn how to go over the electrical system better. I did go out and buy a muti meter though, so I'll get to that soon. Thanks everyone, I'll let you know what happens. I am going to take the morning off and take my Husky up into the hills.
Last edited by bj on Tue Sep 02, 2008 10:38 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Bryan, hope you & the pooch enjoyed your walk.
Sounds like you have Bill's Restoration Guide (HNRRG); take a look at his article starting at the bottom of p12 within the TECHKNUCKLE section; there's some really interesting philosophy and otherwised-missed info there for single carb bikes! Regards, Steve Thanks, but I have the other kind of Husky......
Well after feeling pretty good about being able to get that motor running right, I went out and gave it try. After another half a day at it, and got soooo frustrated that I took 3 weeks off. While I now know that the choke is working correctly and the proper setting for the airscrew. It still runs horrible. It's really rich. While going down the road the power is choppy and weak. It's driving me crazy! I went over everything again. Checked the valves, timing, new plugs. Cleaned out both carbs that I have, again, and tried both. Tried different needle positions. Checked the float heights. Switched out the rectifier and coil with the ones from my other bike (I'm not sure if those are any better.) Freshly charged battery. The only thing I can think of else to try is to get smaller jets. I'll have to call up western hills. I am to the point where I'd really love to take it to someone who knows these bikes and have them help me out. I just don't know anyone who works on them around socal. There has got to be someone. More confused than ever, Bryan
Ah, you have a Hillman Husky (arf!); I'm sure you don't really have one of our old British....erm.....classics? http://www.imps4ever.info/family/husky.html Right, logical-look time, stage by stage (nothing is insurmountable here): valve clearances - ☺, ign timing - ☺, valve timing - ? (see following check nº 1). Really rich? Like, starts with no choke at all and runs ok 'till warmed up, black smoke (unburnt fuel) from exhaust: float level as per Ed's Recipe? Jetting correct? (see following check nº 2).
That thing looks pretty cool. I have never seen one before.
But, no, that's not what I have. I guess there are a lot of different types of Husky's out there. I am lucky enough to live right next to a national forest with lots of great dirt riding. But, you have to access many roads that require a street legal vehicle. So, I have a Husqvarna that's a great dirt bike and is street legal here in California. Lots of fun. Thanks for the continued help. I am going to try a new set of points. I noticed that with the pts cover off, while I was turning it over, that they sparked quite a bit. Hopefully oil is not leaking in there. Bryan
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