66 CB77 Cafe Racer

[byrdman76]

Hello all,

I have been lurking for a few weeks looking for info for one of my recent builds. I must say I have found this site quite helpful - Keep up the good work.

I picked up a pretty rough cb77 that was missing several original parts so I'm going the cafe route. The motor had been rebuilt back in the seventies and I'm pretty sure it was never completed or cranked since. The pistons look brand new. I was ready to put the motor back together last night and when I went to X the trans I found a few items that need to be replaced. The cotter gear for the 2nd 24 tooth gear (23941-250-010) no offset. The bronze bushing 14mm ID x 17mm OD (23933-253-000). and the 24 tooth second gear had too much wear on the dogs to use (23430-258-000). Used parts in good condition are fine.

I'm also looking for a good timing chain tensioner assembly.

I'm going to call terry at western hills and Nick at Ohio on monday. If anyone has any of these items let me know and how much you want for them.

Havent figured out how to post pictures yet so here is a link to my photobucket album.

http://s170.photobucket.com/albums/u245/byrdman76/

Thanks,

Byrd

[LOUD MOUSE]

Hello Byrd. Those are C/CA77 DREAM pistons and will increase the compression a small amount which is not a problem. As I see the valves in one pic I think I see that those spark plugs are so long that if you attempt to start the engine with them in the head they will bend your intake valves. You can test this by rotating the cam sprocket by hand. I may have some of the parts you need. If you like you can get in touch direct. ..................lm

Hello all,

I have been lurking for a few weeks looking for info for one of my recent builds. I must say I have found this site quite helpful - Keep up the good work.

I picked up a pretty rough cb77 that was missing several original parts so I'm going the cafe route. The motor had been rebuilt back in the seventies and I'm pretty sure it was never completed or cranked since. The pistons look brand new. I was ready to put the motor back together last night and when I went to X the trans I found a few items that need to be replaced. The cotter gear for the 2nd 24 tooth gear (23941-250-010) no offset. The bronze bushing 14mm ID x 17mm OD (23933-253-000). and the 24 tooth second gear had too much wear on the dogs to use (23430-258-000). Used parts in good condition are fine.

I'm also looking for a good timing chain tensioner assembly.

I'm going to call terry at western hills and Nick at Ohio on monday. If anyone has any of these items let me know and how much you want for them.

Havent figured out how to post pictures yet so here is a link to my photobucket album.

http://s170.photobucket.com/albums/u245/byrdman76/

Thanks,

Byrd

[byrdman76]

I just wanted to post up and let everyone know what a huge help Loud mouse has been in getting me parts and information for this bike. With the help of Bill Silvers books and LM's reassurance I was able to get the trans gears X'd and the bottom end back together. I'll hopefully get the top end completed this week and then I can focus back on the paint and getting the rolling chassis back together.

Its pretty funny when I first received Bill Silvers books I was thinking "this is it for nearly 60 bucks - Dang!" Once I was putting the bottom end back together and read all the ways to screw up a 305 engine I was swayed in the other direction. This book is worth its weight in gold... I think I was going to attempt to get away with at least 5 of his top ten ways to screw up a good 305.

Thanks again,

Byrd

[deez]

looking good byrd!! i had a few questions. did you bead blast your carbs and engine? also how did you buff that side cover out? was it done professionally? i couldnt imagine how you get into all the tight spots.
-cheers
-deez

[byrdman76]

looking good byrd!! i had a few questions. did you bead blast your carbs and engine? also how did you buff that side cover out? was it done professionally? i couldnt imagine how you get into all the tight spots.
-cheers
-deez

Thanks Deez,

Only the motor was bead blasted. The carbs were dipped and cleaned. I polished most of the brass pieces with a quick pass on a buffing wheel since they usually come out a little discolored from the Chem Dip. The bowls were sanded lightly with a little 400 grit.

I just hate the way the fine media gets into everything. You just have to be very thorough degreasing the part before hand and removing the media after. I have heard of Walnut being used, but I have also heard it is very abrasive and i dont know what it would do to cast aluminum.

The side covers, and ignition covers were "sweat sanded" with 800, 1000, 2000 and then buffed with jewlers rouge and mothers. I still need to hit them a bit more but i figured I would stick them on for the mock up shot.

Most of the tight spots were done with a dremel first before the rest of the cover was done so that it would blend.

If you look at the original pictures the covers were in pretty sad shape. I had to use a roloc disk on each side cover to get rid of all of the gouges and deep scratches - at that point I said screw it I'm already this far...

Thanks again for the comments

[byrdman76]

I ordered a new RK cam chain for my motor (94 links i believe). The thing is it was pretty tight going on - I really have no need for a tensioner at this point. Just wondering it this was a pretty normal occurrence for a new chain during a rebuild. I did remove one link and replaced it with a clip style master link. The chain path, lower crank sprocket, and lower chain guide all look correct.

Thanks,

Byrd

[LOUD MOUSE]

They are always tight when new and will loosen as soon as you put a few miles on it. Adjust the tensioner now and after about 100 miles. I always replace that chain when I rebuild an engine. I hope you have the cam/crank timing correct. If it won't start easily you may want to check. .............lm

I ordered a new RK cam chain for my motor (94 links i believe). The thing is it was pretty tight going on - I really have no need for a tensioner at this point. Just wondering it this was a pretty normal occurrence for a new chain during a rebuild. I did remove one link and replaced it with a clip style master link. The chain path, lower crank sprocket, and lower chain guide all look correct.

Thanks,

Byrd