I appreciate everyone's comments and help...yeah, this is a pretty exciting deal especially when you consider it may have been decades since machines like mine have run for any time at all or even started. A whole lot of different smells coming off these bikes as compared to modern vehicles, yes? I feel like one of those guys that discovered the mummy in the sarcophagus last week.
After the first go-round I removed the points plate and performed a thorough cleaning of that whole area. My goal was to fire it up again and rule in or out leakage of the points cam seal as the source of the oil leak. Obviously it's not possible to view this directly so I was setting up a little "forensics." Replaced the points plate where I had marked it previously.
Took it outside, started it up, started and ran fine. Ran it around the house a couple of times. First gear seems pretty tall compared to other motorcycles I've ridden, which makes sense cuz there're only four of 'em. (Gears, not other motorcycles.) By now it was good and warm and I didn't notice the smoke problem from the mufflers anymore. But I'm not hanging my hat on that analysis unless I'm convinced there's no breeze around while I'm looking.
Back on the stand, the idle RPM would climb up by itself and then back down. I attempted to turn in both air screws a little but it didn't seem to have an effect. This also happened while on the bike a few minutes before... just sitting on the bike the revs went up quite excitingly. I don't think my slides are sticking, I looked at them later to see and everything looks good. So I don't know what this revving thing is about. Otherwise it idles very nicely at 1,000 RPM.
After this I removed the points plate and sure enough there is a narrow stream of oil wetness from the points cam shaft down across the seal and continuing down to the opening in the points cover where it escapes in a desperate mission to attack the exhaust system and create prodigious smoke. So my earlier prediction that this looked like a new seal that had just gotten out of place was wrong. In any event I don't know what's wrong with this seal but I ordered a new one which will arrive Wednesday. I did notice you could see a little oil around the shaft where it exits the seal. I suppose if a seal was doing its job you wouldn't see any oil, yes?
Removed the front wheel and brake assembly. Things aren't nice and shiny as can be expected but I don't see any damage to the shoes or otherwise. My calipers reveal 3.75 mm of shoe thickness left at the thinnest part which is well within the replacement tolerance of 2.5 mm. I popped out the brake shoe spindles and cleaned them up real good and replaced them, giving the appropriate surfaces a nice coat of Raybestos waterproof white lithium grease. I'll replace the brake cable while I'm at it since I have a new one ready to go.
And yes, e3steve, I will adjust the clutch before my next go-round.
Fresh meat!
Looks like most things are working out pretty ok, there.
Once adjusted, the clutch may prove drag-free; if it doesn't, then disassembly could be in order. In view of the previous problem with disengagement, possibilities are:
Stopping is goodFinished replacing the front wheel, installed new brake cable. I can grab a lotta front brake now...much better. I'd like to wait until I get a new rear sprocket before I pull the rear wheel to closely examine the brakes so I don't have to do this twice, but I need rear brakes. So I dove in and noticed that the adjustment at the rear brake lever was screwed almost all the way in. Don't know how this would have worked for anyone attempting to use the rear brake on this bike in the past, but there you have it. I simply unscrewed the adjusting thread about an inch and now I have lots of rear brake too. This also took care of the problem of the brake pedal contacting the muffler as it's now apparent that if set properly the brake when actuated should not be able to be depressed far enough for this to happen. The cracked and nasty cable needs replacement, but it still works for now and for some reason replacement cables seem to be unavailable without some effort.
Also performed surgery on the spring that actuates the rear brake light switch...shortened it and fashioned a new end loop. So now my brake light works. Removed the cam chain tensioner. Seems to be working fine. Cleaned it up, replaced it, tightened it up. Attempted to fix the light switch at the left handgrip. A lot of tiny parts there but it's not unlike every living room floor lamp from the 50's I've had to fix where parts would be impossible to find. It didn't really do the trick. That whole arrangement with the tiny ball bearing and tiny spring is pretty flimsy and I don't know if the little spring is not up to snuff or what but it doesn't give me a real confident feeling. Also the wires where they are soldered to the three contacts on the little piece of micarta or whatever it is show signs of overheating. I'd love to get a switch in better condition. The horn sounds really comical. I'm gonna leave it like that. Seems fitting. But at least I have brakes now so on my next little shake-out cruise when this infernal machine decides to over-rev at the moment the clutch won't disengage I'll have a good shot at not busting through my neighbor's closed garage door while my left hand flails in the direction of the ignition switch. :/
rear brake cable, etc.Retrobikes should have rear brake cable for cb77 in stock pretty soon, a new item for them.
LM has a drawer full of dimmer switches and parts, he'd probably sell you what you need if you talk nice to him. Don't forget the little H-shaped insulator that goes between the spring and brass contactor, the Honda shop apparently left it off on mine back in the day and I found my light switch fried when I took it off. Be careful, the crescent shaped piece with contacts is brittle (bitter experience speaking). Good luck! Thanks again, guysMike, that's a good suggestion about a possible air leak. Would I be looking for this on the "downwind" side of the carb such as at the carb/head connection as opposed to the "upwind" section? The reason I ask is that my air tubes are a little brittle with lots of little cracks but I don't think there are any holes. I haven't worried about this because I've assumed leak concerns come about from problems with the carb insulator gasket, also the cause of slide problems when the bolts are too snug.
Headlight switch...yeah, this is dogging me. When I took it apart, a piece of what appeared to be a small piece of clear epoxy glue fell out along with a little metal part and the tiny spring. The little ball bearing was still wedged in the plastic body. I assumed this "glue" was part of an attempt to fix...something...and since I couldn't tell what I had no choice but to forge ahead and attempt to figure out how this switch works and get it going again. jleeweb, could this glue thing be the tattered remains of this H-shaped insulator you describe? The order of parts I have is this: (1)crescent shaped micarta piece with three contacts, (2) metal three sided piece, (3) tiny spring, (4) ball bearing. I suppose the current runs through this path and grounds on the switch body? Perhaps not...if there's supposed to be an insulator between the contact and the spring, then the switch works differently. As I noted, the crescent shaped piece is not in good shape as the wires have gotten brittle and burned-looking. emo....I'm hoping this tale of woe is pathetic enough for you to describe how you might be tempted to assist with your Box of Magical Parts. Would debasing myself by attaching a flashlight to my headlamp with a bungee cord be sufficient? :[
Re: Thanks again, guysDo you have tubing on the brass tube on the bottom of the float bowls?. .............................lm
RIDE IT DON'T HIDE IT!
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