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1964 CA77 Restoration

Want to keep a Restoration Log? Post it here! You can include photos. Suggested format: One Restoration per Thread; then keep adding your updates to the same thread...
48lesco
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Post by 48lesco » Thu May 07, 2015 11:53 am

Hey those gasket surfaces are hard to clean with the knock pins in there, as you're probably finding out... And you should get those good and clean to not leak including both sides of the screen. If you want to get them out, stick a close-fitting drill bit in them and then you can use your favorite pliers on them without crushing. A little heat may help too.
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cknight
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Post by cknight » Thu May 07, 2015 12:18 pm

Removing the hollow dowels (knock pins) by lubricating first with PB Blaster (or something similar), and then use an appropriate sized EZ-out to rotate them out is also convenient. Regards, Chase

deafanddiabetic
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Post by deafanddiabetic » Thu May 07, 2015 1:59 pm

The best part about removing the knock pins is crushing them with pliers then having to wait two weeks to order them through your local Honda dealership....


:(
1964 CA72
1974 BMW R75/6
1969 CL450
1995 Toyota Corolla Wagon (The Hauler)

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G-Man
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Post by G-Man » Thu May 07, 2015 2:06 pm

I made some taper pins to push in before using grips on them.

I make my own knock pins from stainless steel tube turned down for a snug fit and correct length.

G
'60 C77 '60 C72 '62 C72 Dream '63 CL72
'61 CB72 '64 CB77 '65 CB160
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'67 S90 '77 CB400F

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Seadog
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Post by Seadog » Thu May 07, 2015 2:49 pm

You guys are the best, not only do you provide valuable information and insight, but you make me laugh too. Thanks.

I got the darned thing out of the oil pump base but I haven't tried the one in the lower case yet. I put a bit of PBBlaster at the base of the pin, tapped it lightly for a bit, then put a hose clamp on it. I then tapped the clamp knuckle with a brass rod and a small hammer. Out it came. Who said that necessity was the mother of invention?

Now I just want to know how Loud Mouse would have done it. Ed?
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LOUD MOUSE
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Post by LOUD MOUSE » Thu May 07, 2015 2:56 pm

Actually I don't remove either of them no matter where they stuck.
If in the case my Carb Cleaner softens them and same if in the pump body.
I then use a wire brush on the case and wire wheel on my bench motor on the pump.
I also take the pump apart and inspect the pump wheels for damage and look at the area where the side of the wheels contact the aluminum pump parts for scaring. ..................lm.
Seadog wrote:You guys are the best, not only do you provide valuable information and insight, but you make me laugh too. Thanks.

I got the darned thing out of the oil pump base but I haven't tried the one in the lower case yet. I put a bit of PBBlaster at the base of the pin, tapped it lightly for a bit, then put a hose clamp on it. I then tapped the clamp knuckle with a brass rod and a small hammer. Out it came. Who said that necessity was the mother of invention?

Now I just want to know how Loud Mouse would have done it. Ed?

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Seadog
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Post by Seadog » Thu May 07, 2015 3:11 pm

Thanks, LM. That's the best answer yet - don't remove them at all. I'll leave the one in the engine case alone.

When I cleaned up the pump housing and the filter, it appeared that the gaskets had been glued down with what I guess to be a shellac gasket compound. I think that's what was holding the pin in too. Once I cleaned the pin and the hole, the pin slides in and out freely. Was shellac gasket compound the right thing to use on the gaskets and on the pin?

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