What a concept - A Girl Bringing Back Her 1966 Super Hawk

cknight · Post by **cknight** » Sat Nov 30, 2013 10:12 am

Good deal, just a bit more fun involved in sorting this out. If enough material has been removed to bottom out the knock pins, it would be advised to make certain the cylinder studs are now not too long. Once everything is ready to torque the top cover/head/cylinder assembly, temporarily secure it in position with a couple of regular nuts, taking up any slack in the gaskets. No big torque, just snug. Now put the acorn nuts on the top cover without any washers, running them down to made sure they touch the top cover, and don't bottom out on the studs. At this point, shortening the studs is not an enjoyable task, so doubling up on the washers could be an acceptable fix (LM?). Also check the 6mm studs by the spark plugs, making sure they don't run out of threads before those nuts are tight. Glad that's all that occurred, and that I could contribute. Thanks for the toast, cheers, Chase

sarals · Post by **sarals** » Sat Nov 30, 2013 1:03 pm

Chase, you and Ed were well deserving of that toast, believe me!

I am using the original copper washers on the head. They do show some wear. Ed and I discussed that yesterday, too. He felt they'd be okay to use again. I'll make sure I do all of what you suggested. First things first, though. I have a feeling those knock pins are not going to come out of the barrel easily. If so, I'll have to shorten them where they live. Lets hope I don't have to do that!

cknight · Post by **cknight** » Sat Nov 30, 2013 2:12 pm

If they don't easily slide out, put a few drops of ACF50 on the the knock pins just in case any dissimilar metal interaction has occurred. Then, after a few minutes., clean their OD with lacquer thinner. Tear off a narrow strip of duct tape, and wrap around the exposed OD of the knock pin. Select a pair of pliers that have a recess that's close to the pin diameter. Grasp the pin gently, rotating it back and forth, while prying upward. These are thin wall, and will distort easily. Hopefully, this will enable their removal. Chase

sarals · Post by **sarals** » Sat Nov 30, 2013 3:02 pm

cknight wrote:If they don't easily slide out, put a few drops of ACF50 on the the knock pins just in case any dissimilar metal interaction has occurred. Then, after a few minutes., clean their OD with lacquer thinner. Tear off a narrow strip of duct tape, and wrap around the exposed OD of the knock pin. Select a pair of pliers that have a recess that's close to the pin diameter. Grasp the pin gently, rotating it back and forth, while prying upward. These are thin wall, and will distort easily. Hopefully, this will enable their removal. Chase

Wow, do I thank you for that, Chase. That definitely helps.

Now, off to the garage. I'll back later today.

G-Man · Post by **G-Man** » Sat Nov 30, 2013 5:47 pm

Sara

I made a tool to fit inside the knock pins. It's a slow taper pin which slips inside them to support the thin steel. You can then grip the part with pliers without fear of squashing , giving them a good twist to release them.

You can use the same too to hold them in a lathe ( or drilling machine) to shorten the knock pin.

G

cknight · Post by **cknight** » Sat Nov 30, 2013 7:46 pm

If you don't have the studs in the way, a properly sized E-Z Out can also be used to rotate and pull them out with minimal distortion. Regards, Chase

sarals · Post by **sarals** » Sat Nov 30, 2013 7:49 pm

Chase and Graham, they popped right out with no protest. My dogs give me more trouble when I ask them if they want to eat.

Here are the modified knock pins. An original, from another barrel that I have, is in the center.