What a concept - A Girl Bringing Back Her 1966 Super Hawk

sarals · Post by **sarals** » Fri Nov 22, 2013 12:33 pm

Hey you all, thank you SO MUCH!

I went out last night and checked the lights. They ALL work! I have a bad bulb in the instrument cluster (I'll change that in a day or so), and the headlight wasn't making good contact (cleaned the bullet connectors). I checked voltage at the tail light wires (rear fender is not installed), and I have battery voltage back there. There is voltage to and from the brake light switch, as well. In the "parking light" position, I have voltage at the tail light. So - everything works!

Next week - gas and spark.

Getting close!!

http://youtu.be/EQevzk8neUE

Rickytic · Post by **Rickytic** » Fri Nov 22, 2013 1:31 pm

Good job Sarals. I am sure you have great satisfaction and relief now that you know the electrics work. I think there are only two wires that go to the taillight, both are hot wires. The ground comes from the license plate holder when it is bolted to the fender. Think about cleaning the bolt holes (fender, if painted) when you bolt the license plate bracket to the fender for better ground contact.

There is a product called Lanolin Grease that works well with electrical contacts. Keeps them from corriding and blocks moisture. Not sure of the spelling of Lanolin.

Rickytic

sarals · Post by **sarals** » Fri Nov 22, 2013 1:52 pm

Rickytic wrote:Good job Sarals. I am sure you have great satisfaction and relief now that you know the electrics work. I think there are only two wires that go to the taillight, both are hot wires. The ground comes from the license plate holder when it is bolted to the fender. Think about cleaning the bolt holes (fender, if painted) when you bolt the license plate bracket to the fender for better ground contact.

There is a product called Lanolin Grease that works well with electrical contacts. Keeps them from corroding and blocks moisture. Not sure of the spelling of Lanolin.

Rickytic

Ricky, thanks! I like the idea of the Lanolin. Surprisingly, many of the bullets were in good shape and clean. I did replace probably ten of them, though. The connection problems I had were not having seated the bullets into the female connectors far enough.

I saw two "square" patches of bare metal around the light bracket bolt holes on the rear fender when I was prepping it for paint. I'll make sure there is clean metal contacting that bracket when I do install it.

By the way, I have to repaint the rear fender AGAIN because it fell off of the stand I had it on when I was putting the finish coat on it. I was so disgusted I set it aside!

cknight · Post by **cknight** » Fri Nov 22, 2013 2:47 pm

Don't forget, good conductivity is needed where the fender bolts to the frame. It's best to wear out your multi-meter now, rather than hunt conductivity problems later. Regards, Chase

sarals · Post by **sarals** » Fri Nov 22, 2013 4:07 pm

cknight wrote:Don't forget, good conductivity is needed where the fender bolts to the frame. It's best to wear out your multi-meter now, rather than hunt conductivity problems later. Regards, Chase

Chase, thank you. I'll make sure that area has some bare metal, too.

OldStan · Post by **OldStan** » Fri Nov 22, 2013 5:18 pm

Di-electric grease is made specifically for preventing corrosion at electrical connections.

sarals · Post by **sarals** » Fri Nov 22, 2013 5:21 pm

OldStan wrote:Di-electric grease is made specifically for preventing corrosion at electrical connections.

Hi, Stan! Dielectric grease I know of, and I have some - I think! I know the ignition module has dielectric grease in/on the connector on the module. I'll hunt down my tube of the stuff, if not, I'll get one.

Thank you!