Steverino's CB77

[LOUD MOUSE]

An improvement for sure. ..............lm

Thank You LM
I always appreciate your help. Here is the ground cable that was on the bike when I got it. I am getting a good used one that has the original ends on it.

KIMG0045 by Steve Steverinomeister, on Flickr

Here is the replacement.
ground cable by Steve Steverinomeister, on Flickr

[LOUD MOUSE]

That is definitely a big improvement. ..................lm

An improvement for sure. ..............lm

Thank You LM
I always appreciate your help. Here is the ground cable that was on the bike when I got it. I am getting a good used one that has the original ends on it.

KIMG0045 by Steve Steverinomeister, on Flickr

Here is the replacement.
ground cable by Steve Steverinomeister, on Flickr

[Steverino]

I am partially colorblind so getting the wiring reconnected is tedious and migraine inducing. The blacks with the white tubes are easy and the bright colors with the stripes aren't too bad but the browns, reds, and greens are murder. I can differentiate between those colors when they are connected but when it comes time to reconnect them they just blend together. I have to spend a lot of time with the wiring diagram and a continuity tester and trace those all out. I am so close but so far.
KIMG0103 by Steve Steverinomeister, on Flickr

I hope the wiring colors are a little brighter on my next project. I think it has some multi coneectors so that should make it a little easier.

KIMG0105 by Steve Steverinomeister, on Flickr

I learned of this trick that should make things easier for me next time. On wires that I can't differentiate I am going to attach these brightly colored zip ties then trim the tails to leave brightly colored bands.
KIMG0106 by Steve Steverinomeister, on Flickr

[Steverino]

I had all the wiring in the headlight bucket and motor wiring connected. The High and Low beams, neutral light, speedo/tacho lights and horn button all functioned properly. I rechecked the lights the next day and the headlight was pretty dim, as if the key had been left on. It hadn't. I disconnected the positive wires from the battery and put my multi tester between the positive battery terminal and wires normally connected to the battery. It read about 5 volts with the key in the off position. I suppose at this point I should of already figured out the problem but I went ahead and started disconnecting circuits in the headlight bucket just to see if I had a short in one of the switches. Disconnecting all the circuits in the bucket, even power to the headlight switch still did not stop the current. Moving on back, I disconnected the wiring to the motor, brake switch and rectifier. Nothing stopped the discharge. I am pretty sure my harness is intact, I rewrapped most of it. Common sense tells me the problem is in the switch. Is my key switch shorted?
Thank You
Steve

[DianneB]

You need to be measuring amperes between the battery and the battery cables to have any meaningful information.

A voltmeter takes only a TINY amount of current to give an indication and any little bit of leakage, even your fingers, will give a voltage reading the way you tested. A reading of 5 volts would indicate only minor leakage and wouldn't run your battery down.

If you don't have an AMP scale on your meter, you can use a small 12 volt bulb. If something is drawing power, the bulb will light, maybe very dimly.

[sixtiescycle]

Try disconnecting the center battery wire on the rectifier and see if that's the culprit.

[Steverino]

Thanks Dianne and Dick
I didn't have an amp meter so I was just trying to see if there was some kind of draw. I was careful not to be touching/conducting with my fingers, but you're right I know. I bought a multi meter this morning with an amp position and I'm going to retest tonight. The switch feels pretty worn and CMS had one on discount so I ordered it yesterday. I am still going retest with the original switch tonight. I'll try disconnecting the middle rectifier terminal first.
Thanks Again for your Help
Steve