1966 CB77 Restoration Project

LOUD MOUSE · Post by **LOUD MOUSE** » Fri Feb 02, 2018 6:58 pm

If you can't repair that (late model) head I can supply you with one which I have done a complete rebuild to.
If I used your cams and other internal parts I would need $230. 00.
Let me know if I can help. ........................lm

Seadog wrote:Thanks, LM. That's a good idea. Before I saw your post, I sat for awhile thinking about it and came up with a slightly different method. I just treated the pin like a bushing. I have ¼" rod, washers, nuts and I cut a piece of conduit I had lying around and simply pushed the pin out. I lubed it as it moved and it gave no resistance. On the last bit, I attached a vice-grip and lightly tapped it with a hammer to completely remove the pin. Job done.

I'm not sure about what's next. I have to decide what I'm going to do about the top crankcase - replace it or try to repair it. There are pros and cons for both options. The same for the head. I broke fins dropping it. I have to decide whether I want to try an aluminum braze repair or just replace it. I just don't think that I can get it hot enough for a successful brazing repair, but then I can't seem to find a good replacement. More for me to think about. Until I make a decision, I can be cleaning, fixing and/or ordering parts.

Seadog · Post by **Seadog** » Fri Feb 02, 2018 8:08 pm

That’s a good option, LM. I’ll send you a PM.

LOUD MOUSE wrote:If you can't repair that (late model) head I can supply you with one which I have done a complete rebuild to.
If I used your cams and other internal parts I would need $230. 00.
Let me know if I can help. ........................lm

G-Man · Post by **G-Man** » Sat Feb 03, 2018 5:15 am

Seadog

Good choice of method. You are much less likely to bend the rod by applying force in that way. I have discovered a couple of bent rods in the engines I have stripped. Pretty easy to put right but not good news.

You could always use JB weld or other cold repair on your case. Well sanded with a light coat of paint and all will be well.

G

Seadog wrote:Thanks, LM. That's a good idea. Before I saw your post, I sat for awhile thinking about it and came up with a slightly different method. I just treated the pin like a bushing. I have ¼" rod, washers, nuts and I cut a piece of conduit I had lying around and simply pushed the pin out. I lubed it as it moved and it gave no resistance. On the last bit, I attached a vice-grip and lightly tapped it with a hammer to completely remove the pin. Job done.

I'm not sure about what's next. I have to decide what I'm going to do about the top crankcase - replace it or try to repair it. There are pros and cons for both options. The same for the head. I broke fins dropping it. I have to decide whether I want to try an aluminum braze repair or just replace it. I just don't think that I can get it hot enough for a successful brazing repair, but then I can't seem to find a good replacement. More for me to think about. Until I make a decision, I can be cleaning, fixing and/or ordering parts.

Seadog · Post by **Seadog** » Tue Feb 06, 2018 11:09 am

Work continues at a slow pace - the workshop is just too cold. I'm trying to concentrate on the engine, making a list of parts needed to get it back together. This morning, I was looking at the chain tensioners. The primary chain tensioner looks good, but the cam chain roller guide and tensioner are beat. The roller guide is available from Thailand, but the 39mm tensioner wheel is another matter. Cappellini seems to be the only viable option. It's not a bad option, just a bit pricey.

Grunge cleanup is also high priority before meaningful progress can be made. Both crankcases are filthy beyond belief and I'll need serious time outside cleaning them with kerosene and a stiff brush. That will have to wait for warmer weather, but I've mucked out the worst of it with a putty knife. This will need to be done before any attempt to repair the notch in the upper case. I've bought aluminum brazing rod for the job and I'm thinking I might use my barbeque to heat the case. I'll need to give it more thought.

Onward and upward. Back to ordering parts.

IMG_2408 by Sea Dog, on Flickr

LOUD MOUSE · Post by **LOUD MOUSE** » Tue Feb 06, 2018 3:10 pm

That chain was Way-Way-Way Over Tight. ....................lm

Seadog wrote:Work continues at a slow pace - the workshop is just too cold. I'm trying to concentrate on the engine, making a list of parts needed to get it back together. This morning, I was looking at the chain tensioners. The primary chain tensioner looks good, but the cam chain roller guide and tensioner are beat. The roller guide is available from Thailand, but the 39mm tensioner wheel is another matter. Cappellini seems to be the only viable option. It's not a bad option, just a bit pricey.

Grunge cleanup is also high priority before meaningful progress can be made. Both crankcases are filthy beyond belief and I'll need serious time outside cleaning them with kerosene and a stiff brush. That will have to wait for warmer weather, but I've mucked out the worst of it with a putty knife. This will need to be done before any attempt to repair the notch in the upper case. I've bought aluminum brazing rod for the job and I'm thinking I might use my barbeque to heat the case. I'll need to give it more thought.

Onward and upward. Back to ordering parts.

IMG_2408 by Sea Dog, on Flickr

Seadog · Post by **Seadog** » Tue Feb 06, 2018 3:31 pm

I'm glad you said that, I thought so too. I have to say that when I was cleaning the tensioner mechanism, I found the spring to be really, really hard to compress - it took two hands with the adjusting bolt loose. I don't have a whole lot of experience, but I don't remember the spring in the last one I was working on being so hard.

LOUD MOUSE wrote:That chain was Way-Way-Way Over Tight. ....................lm

G-Man · Post by **G-Man** » Tue Feb 06, 2018 4:53 pm

How about I send you one of these in exchange for the kickstart cover you sent me? It will have a new needle roller, and zinc plated spring, plunger & bolt'

Just let me know whether it's narrow or wide and what the wheel diameter might be...

G

Seadog wrote:Work continues at a slow pace - the workshop is just too cold. I'm trying to concentrate on the engine, making a list of parts needed to get it back together. This morning, I was looking at the chain tensioners. The primary chain tensioner looks good, but the cam chain roller guide and tensioner are beat. The roller guide is available from Thailand, but the 39mm tensioner wheel is another matter. Cappellini seems to be the only viable option. It's not a bad option, just a bit pricey.

Grunge cleanup is also high priority before meaningful progress can be made. Both crankcases are filthy beyond belief and I'll need serious time outside cleaning them with kerosene and a stiff brush. That will have to wait for warmer weather, but I've mucked out the worst of it with a putty knife. This will need to be done before any attempt to repair the notch in the upper case. I've bought aluminum brazing rod for the job and I'm thinking I might use my barbeque to heat the case. I'll need to give it more thought.

Onward and upward. Back to ordering parts.

IMG_2408 by Sea Dog, on Flickr