Fresh meat!

[davomoto]

I like to coat the outside of the seal with hondabond, the same sealer used for crankases when installing new seals. Especially since that one has already worked itself out. You might also want to remove the stator, and check the seal behind it.

davomoto

[Loudo]

Thanks, Scott and davomoto. I'm going to replace the chain since they aren't expensive and I think I'm going with previous advice to replace the chain and both sprockets at the same time. I'm going to take a good look at at the drive sprocket (which the grime presently prevents), but I know the rear wheel sprocket is shot.

davomoto, I'll make use of the Hondabond, thanks for the tip. I note that the seal that didn't stay put has a tiny ring of red around the circumference as if some substance was applied...perhaps for the same goal? Maybe the factory used such products during assembly? I suppose you're right about the stator seal, seeing as how I've noted in a previous post the presence of oil on the stator windings insulation.

At least I haven't (yet) seen a similar pool of oil around my semi-botched seal installation at the other side of the motor at the shift lever. I'm not saying my repair was successful after all, just that it used to leak just sitting there and now it doesn't.

[Loudo]

I note that the starter chain has a goodly amount of slack...in fact it's slightly brushing the case at the bottom, photo attached. I've read a similar post where someone had concern about this and was told don't worry. I don't see an adjustment mechanism anyway.

I also see that the insulation around the starting motor cable has been scraped away...perhaps this can be seen in the attached photo. I don't know what could cause this other than the starter chain, but it doesn't seem possible that there would be enough chain lash for it to reach that high. Perhaps this is something that occurred in the past because the cable slipped down closer to the chain at some point.

Trying to get the rotor off...removed the stator so far so good. I see Bill Silver's book directs me to "use the special rotor puller bolt to the remove the rotor/starter clutch assembly." I looked up this special tool in the official parts manual and see a tiny hand-drawn picture of what appears to be a bolt. Its specialness is, um, obscure. So...can anyone tell me what's so special about this bolt, how it might be used, or if I could substitute the use of one of my various steering wheel pullers or two or three or four jaw pullers I have laying around?

Also, Mr. Silver's book talks about disconnecting the neutral switch wire connector and removing two screws holding the neutral switch. I don't see any reference to these parts in the parts manual and it's not obvious to me what this is or why it needs to be removed. Any help?

[davomoto]

Nuetral switch is above trans shaft, and has a seal behind it as well. Unless it appears to be leaking, no need tp mess with it. Check out this thread for rortor removal tools. http://www.honda305.com/forums/viewtopi ... l&start=20

The chain does seem to be hanging pretty low, you may want to think about finding a replacement. I installed a NOS one on one bike, and it still was loose, though not a s loose as yours is.

[Loudo]

The part I was missing was removal of the rotor setting bolt. Clearly this bolt must be removed before inserting this special rotor removal bolt. Bill Silver's book didn't describe this necessary step, I'm guessing because it's important I feel like an idiot.

Any reason a guy couldn't simply use a three jaw puller in this situation? Using a smaller bolt or piece of steel rod inserted into the hole?

[Loudo]

I put a 14mm wrench on the stator bolt and smacked it. It loosened right up and I removed it. Then I put a 1/4" x 2" flathead bolt in the hole and attached my three jaw puller. Had it off in about 20 seconds.

The seal looks ok. Maybe it's leaking anyway, I don't know.

[Spargett]

Whoa. Didn't see how rusted that was when I was looking at the photos on my phone!. Good call.

Thanks, Scott and davomoto. I'm going to replace the chain since they aren't expensive and I think I'm going with previous advice to replace the chain and both sprockets at the same time.