1966 Honda Dream Barn Find, or, I Must Be Crazy

Solomoriah · Post by **Solomoriah** » Sat Jul 14, 2012 11:16 am

Last night, I spent a little time with the Dream. Yes, the pistons are still frozen. I decided that I wanted to tip the bike backward, to level the cylinders a bit so the solution would make it to the backs of the pistons. Of course, at this point I could just pull the engine, but I don't really have a good way to handle it as yet. Probably should spend a little time on that.

Instead of doing that, I pulled the back wheel to provide clearance to tip it backward. The axle nut came loose surprisingly easily, and the axle itself looks very good. The bolt for the "rear arm" (the thing that keeps the brake from spinning around) was rusty-looking, but came loose without a fight. The thing that had me worried was the rear brake rod, but I soaked it good with PB and it came off with only the slightest argument. The rod is quite rusty all over; no guarantee I'll be able to reuse it in the end. A lot of fasteners are going that way too.

Took me a bit to figure out how to get the wheel out; I had to tip the bike over 45 degrees to get enough clearance to pull it out.

Tipped the bike back and blocked up the front wheel, then put some more of the pink stuff in. Others have complained about the acetone/ATF mixture separating, but I haven't seen it, though I do shake it up before pouring it in.

I decided the bike was a bit more precarious than I liked, so I used some nylon strap I have laying around my garage to tie the handlebars to the truss overhead. With that secure, I decided to go ahead and pull the countershaft sprocket, if I could.

It was a bit of a fight to get one of the bolts loose, but I did, and once I had done so I was able to remove the keeper and then the sprocket itself. It's visibly worn, with a scalloped edge visible on the back side and the teeth worn to angles. At least they aren't hooked.

I think the former owner must have put a new chain on the old sprockets, since the chain adjusters are very near to the loosest (i.e. newest) position. They are badly rusted too, but as I wasn't pulling the rear sprocket/damper assembly, I didn't bother with trying to break them loose. More parts I'll probably need to replace in the end.

I ran the gearbox through the gears again, and had trouble getting it to shift above second gear. I don't think there's any oil in the crankcase (or if there is, it's just sludge) but since I can't turn the engine over, it wouldn't help to pour any in right now.

Oh, and I tried one more time to remove the broken bolt from the steering stem. Tried heat, then penetrating oil. No joy. I'm thinking strongly that I'm going to go for a full thermal shock treatment... hit it with heat first, then spray some "duster" spray into the hole I drilled through the stub with the can inverted so the really cold liquid comes out. With any luck, I'll get a nice ping or two and the rust holding the stub in place will break loose.

A bit bummed not to have made any real progress, I called it a night.

LOUD MOUSE · Post by **LOUD MOUSE** » Sat Jul 14, 2012 2:35 pm

Not that I'm always correct but I'd bet that if/when you un-stick the pistons you will need to pull the engine then head as usually the rings are stuck in the piston ring grooves. ....................lm

Solomoriah wrote:Last night, I spent a little time with the Dream. Yes, the pistons are still frozen. I decided that I wanted to tip the bike backward, to level the cylinders a bit so the solution would make it to the backs of the pistons. Of course, at this point I could just pull the engine, but I don't really have a good way to handle it as yet. Probably should spend a little time on that.

Instead of doing that, I pulled the back wheel to provide clearance to tip it backward. The axle nut came loose surprisingly easily, and the axle itself looks very good. The bolt for the "rear arm" (the thing that keeps the brake from spinning around) was rusty-looking, but came loose without a fight. The thing that had me worried was the rear brake rod, but I soaked it good with PB and it came off with only the slightest argument. The rod is quite rusty all over; no guarantee I'll be able to reuse it in the end. A lot of fasteners are going that way too.

Took me a bit to figure out how to get the wheel out; I had to tip the bike over 45 degrees to get enough clearance to pull it out.

Tipped the bike back and blocked up the front wheel, then put some more of the pink stuff in. Others have complained about the acetone/ATF mixture separating, but I haven't seen it, though I do shake it up before pouring it in.

I decided the bike was a bit more precarious than I liked, so I used some nylon strap I have laying around my garage to tie the handlebars to the truss overhead. With that secure, I decided to go ahead and pull the countershaft sprocket, if I could.

It was a bit of a fight to get one of the bolts loose, but I did, and once I had done so I was able to remove the keeper and then the sprocket itself. It's visibly worn, with a scalloped edge visible on the back side and the teeth worn to angles. At least they aren't hooked.

I think the former owner must have put a new chain on the old sprockets, since the chain adjusters are very near to the loosest (i.e. newest) position. They are badly rusted too, but as I wasn't pulling the rear sprocket/damper assembly, I didn't bother with trying to break them loose. More parts I'll probably need to replace in the end.

I ran the gearbox through the gears again, and had trouble getting it to shift above second gear. I don't think there's any oil in the crankcase (or if there is, it's just sludge) but since I can't turn the engine over, it wouldn't help to pour any in right now.

Oh, and I tried one more time to remove the broken bolt from the steering stem. Tried heat, then penetrating oil. No joy. I'm thinking strongly that I'm going to go for a full thermal shock treatment... hit it with heat first, then spray some "duster" spray into the hole I drilled through the stub with the can inverted so the really cold liquid comes out. With any luck, I'll get a nice ping or two and the rust holding the stub in place will break loose.

A bit bummed not to have made any real progress, I called it a night.

Solomoriah · Post by **Solomoriah** » Sat Jul 14, 2012 4:13 pm

Yeah, I'm kind of getting resigned to that.

My understanding of everything outside the engine is actually not all that bad, but my knowledge of the engine itself is not as good as I'd like it to be. I know this will be a learning experience... I'm just trying to avoid making it an expensive one.

aerojack7654 · Post by **aerojack7654** » Sun Jul 15, 2012 3:13 pm

Harbor freight has a decent motorcycle lift that I bought for the engine removal on my Dream
http://www.harborfreight.com/1500-lb-ca ... -2792.html
I got it on sale for 69.99, well worth it since it made the engine removal a reasonable operation, and I've had to remove the engine twice since I decided not to address a smoky cylinder during the initial restoration. If you can't find it on sale, let me know, I'll send you a 20% off coupon, presuming youre near a Harbor Freight.
I'm just now finishing up a re-ringing of the engine, it's definitely a learning experience, but hopefully the cylinder will be clean now, and nothing will leak oil!

Good luck with your rebuild

Jack

Solomoriah · Post by **Solomoriah** » Sun Jul 15, 2012 5:08 pm

20% off sounds good, actually. There is a Harbour Freight in Columbia, MO, and I go there about once a month. It so happens next weekend will likely be one of those trips.

Is this an e-coupon, or do you need a mailing address?

aerojack7654 · Post by **aerojack7654** » Sun Jul 15, 2012 6:36 pm

Unfortunately they're paper coupons, so if you want to PM me your address, I'll fire it out tomorrow. Another option is to go get a copy of the latest Road and Track, Cycle, etc. There's usually a Harbor Freight ad in the back with a 20% super coupon in it.

Solomoriah · Post by **Solomoriah** » Sun Jul 15, 2012 6:48 pm

Hmm. I subscribe to Motorcyclist, Cycle World, and Dirt Bike. Have to see if they have the coupons first (no point in you wasting stamp money if I already have one). Thanks!