I didn't get to the handlebars, but I did get the front end installed.
The PO had installed an LED taillight, unfortunately it didn't fit properly and cracked the tail light lens, just a crack along the bottom that I was able to glue together. I had to remove material from 3 places on the LED assembly to get it to fit properly. I can see how you might think it would fit if you didn't look closely. it fit fine in the front part of the lens, but the lens tapers toward the rear causing it to jam in and crack it.
I have my speedometer cleaned up, lubed, zeroed and put back together. It wasn't working properly for the PO, but appear all that was wrong was old hard grease. Crimping the bezel was the hardest part (okay, second hardest, taking it off without destroying it was touchy.) I routed out a piece of wood the right depth so that the edge to be crimped was on the surface and the face was just touching the bottom of the hole so it wouldn't rock while I was crimping it. I used a flattened chisel with a hammer to crimp it, worked out well.
The labor of love (& nostalgia) begins!! 1963 CA77 DreamI had a productive weekend, but it was not without it's frustrations. Drive chain was installed and adjusted. When I went to install the lower chain cover I found that one of the thin threaded plates that are supposed to be spot welded to a tab for mounting the cover was missing. I manufactured one and welded it in place. I also had to trim the new sprocket retaining bolts I had fabricated for clearance. The cover is now installed as is the right engine cover (almost forgot the ball bearing for the clutch.) It only took a couple of tries to get the kick start lever at 11:00.
I've got all the electrical in place and hooked up except at front end. I've used rubber grommets wherever possible, I don't like possible wear points. I've even put grommets in the cable holes on the front fork. I got to one of the things I was dreading, drilling and cutting the handlebar to fit. After measuring and comparing to the original (bent and rusty) handlebar countless times before going forward, I've got all the holes drilled and cut along with the slot for the slide. The slot was where I took the most care and I think it turned out great. My biggest concern was keeping the slot parallel with the bar, anything off from that would change the relative angles between the throttle handle and the throttle hinge and cause binding on the slide. I obtained a new throttle hinge ( the angled slot on the top had some funky wear) and it slides easily with everything in place but the cable. I haven't hooked up the cable yet, but I don't forsee any problem there. I had considered routing the throttle cable from the center inside the handlebar, but after checking everything out I found I would have the length to go the original route and didn't like the sharper curve required for the inside routing. Honda routed it that way for a reason, besides it looks more stock that way. I did try to keep the holes in the handlebar as small as possible since they are weak points. I hope to get the bar mounted and front electrical completed next weekend, then on to the exhaust. I have a repair to do on the right front muffler mount (it's missing from the muffler.) With that it should be pretty much complete, at least the major stuff.
63 CA78
Just curious why you didn't just go with the early style twist throttle? Seems like a lot of work to change over to a later, slide throttle that many say was inferior.
Fair question. There are several reasons. 1st, I wanted to maintain as close to the stock look as possible. This was stock on mine, the change was probably when they went from the 63 CA77 to the 63 CA78, so there wasn't any change, just more labor. The handlebars are as close as I could find other than NOS or used- which are usually less than desireable or cost too much (see 3rd reason.) And, yes, I know the flames aren't stock, but sandpaper and a little clearcoat could correct that if I wanted to. 2nd, I enjoy the challenge of figuring out how to do something. Sometimes it bites me in the behind, but generally I get it to work out. The 3rd is cost, my labor is free, more parts aren't, and I have a spouse that is less than thrilled about the project in the first place. As far as the system being inferior I can't say for sure, but a lot of the problems, IMHO, are due to lack of lubrication and wear, remember these are about 50 year old. I replaced the throttle hinge becaused of the wear. When I first cut the slot for the old hinge it was sticky. I think it was jamming up because of wear in the slot on top of the hinge. When I fit the new hinge ( had to widen the slot slightly) it was smooth. The same hinge was used by Honda on outboards I know as late as 2007, maybe later, so they must have some confidence in the system. Of course it might be more reliable with the outboards due to the shorter cable length. 63 CA78
Making progress, although as usual things take a little longer. The electrical on the front is complete- including an added ground wire from headlight to speedo to main frame. Handlebar is mounted, throttle, front brake and clutch seem to work right (as far as I can tell since I haven't started the engine. I got the left muffler mounted, had to repair the threads on the front mount. The exhaust pipe is just barely touching the case. How close is normal? The right side seems to have plenty of clearance.
Now on to the right front muffler mount fabrication (mount is missing from the muffler.)
63 CA78
Yes I did. My mufflers/pipes are the two piece type. I mounted the pipe first and it could be postioned without touching, but so close that I had to put a flashlight behind it to see any clearance. When the muffler is put on and the front mount tightened it swivels it to where it just touches. That being said, I haven't tightened the rear mount (just held it against the frame) since I'm dealing with the other muffler. Once I get a front mount fabricated for the right side I'll revisit the clearances on tightening everything.
63 CA78
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