63 honda 305, low and terrible voltage

bloodweiser · Post by **bloodweiser** » Tue Jan 10, 2012 5:08 pm

I thought it was a full wave or full bridge rectifier, same thing?
Put one on a cb350 I had years ago,
I'll be damned if I remember what it was called,
but I could pick it out of a lineup.

Snakeoil · Post by **Snakeoil** » Tue Jan 10, 2012 6:06 pm

LOUD MOUSE wrote:Is it a full wave rectifier also?. ......lmquote]

I believe the answer to that is yes, LM. The rectifier takes the waves on the top and bottom of the zero point (crossing the X axis on a graph) and puts them all on the positive side like a row of army helmets. I believe (more ignorance about to show) that a half wave would just cancel out the negative portion of the waves and you would have just the positive portions conducted so it would be helmet, space, helmet, space...

regards,
Rob

Snakeoil · Post by **Snakeoil** » Tue Jan 10, 2012 6:07 pm

Here you go. All you ever wanted to know about rectifiers but were afraid to ask.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rectifier

regards,
Rob

brewsky · Post by **brewsky** » Tue Jan 10, 2012 6:55 pm

Here it is....
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index ... Id=2062584

Wilf · Post by **Wilf** » Tue Jan 10, 2012 9:52 pm

LM: I interpret your question as, "Is an SCR a full wave rectifier?"

The answer is no. It is a single diode (but controllable), so it can only serve as a half-wave rectifier. You could use 2 SCR's to make a full wave rectifier in the same way that you can use 2 of any diode type for full wave rectification.

You could use 4 SCR's in a 'bridge' configuration (that familiar diamond or square combination of 4 diodes) to achieve full wave rectification.

bloodweiser:

The terms 'full wave' and 'bridge' are not the same. Full wave means that both the negative and positive halves of the AC signal are being rectified. Bridge refers to the use of 4 diodes wired a certain way so as to achieve full wave rectification.

Wilf

bloodweiser · Post by **bloodweiser** » Mon Apr 23, 2012 6:45 pm

A low and terrible update:

New battery.
Started perfectly and ran great for 20 minutes,
until it didn't.

No power at the side of the road, horn, lights, nothing.
Found my battery bubbling, warped and hissing,
and had it quickly disconnected.

Battery currently reads 11.5v
though I'm hesitant to try and use it again.

I'm hoping this is a simple dead original rectifier causing overcharging,
but am open to other interpretations.

I have yet to hook up a new, or different battery to see if what happens.
Any other possible damage from this incident?

Jlovvorn · Post by **Jlovvorn** » Mon Apr 23, 2012 7:01 pm

My bike did this to a battery, one or more cells was toast. I think it was a bad aftermarket rectifier.

Changed rectifier to Charlie's Place upgrade model, put in a fresh Mottobatt, and have never had an electrical issue since.