CL77 charging issueCheck for AC voltage (engine running above idle) on the leads going into the rectifier and DC on the lead coming out of it. I'm not familar with the Scrambler charging circuit but am assuming it's much like the Super Hawk with Yellow and Brown leads on the input and Red on the DC output. Ground should be to the chassis--check it for rust/corrosion.
Wilf
chargingThere are connections in the headlight bucket that route back to the alternator. If they are separated that could be your problem. Someone once posted a whole wire diagram of our system if you can find it. Or if you have a clymer manual it has one and you can check the wire connections.
Years ago I had a cl77 that was stripped down for the dirt. The PO had cut the harness off and removed the whole assembly resulting in a no charging state. If only I knew then what I know now, I wouldn't have had to push that bike out of that canyon. RW That RW. That's what I initially was thinking about the headlight as well. We'll hook up the new one to verify that's working and the battery is charging. The manual is on the way. It does look like some connections in the bucket are still together, but the ones for the headlight are not. Appreciate it.
chargingWilf, my northern neighbor amigo, I believe the two are the same in the wire harness with a couple minor exceptions. My trouble shooting rationale is to secure all possible things that could be wrong and then with the voltage checks you eliminate the problems. Actually haven't had to deal with much in the charging systems as yet but my day will come for sure. Thanks for clearing that up. RW
RW,
I'm with you on your method of eliminating the easy things first. Sparks454, In one of your posts you asked whether you could test the rectifier with an Ohm-meter, and I neglected to answer that. Yes, you can. Any diode in working order should show very little forward resistance and a whole bunch of reverse resistance. To do this test, you would have to undo all the connecting wires to the rectifier and then measure the resistance across the diode(s), reverse the ohm-meter leads and measure again. This isn't fool-proof, but should give you a sense of "go/no-go" with your rectifier. I haven't measured resistances on a selenium rectifier this way, so I can't offer Ohmic values. Wilf
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