honda305 Home honda305 Auctions honda305 Gallery honda305 Forum


honda305.com Forum

Login
□ Search
□ FAQ 
□ 
Vintage Honda Owners,
Restorers, Riders and
Admirers

blowing fuse

Charging System, Wiring, Lighting
DrScott
honda305.com Member
Posts: 19
Joined: Wed Mar 01, 2006 5:27 pm

blowing fuse

Post by DrScott » Thu Apr 23, 2009 10:18 am

I've got my 63 305 dream back together after replacing tranny, rings, new paint. Frequently it blows the fuse. I'll get it started and all seems fine then nothing. I probably need to find a short somewhere but I wondered if perhaps this is a common problem?
Thanks
SS

mike69
honda305.com Member
Posts: 193
Joined: Wed Sep 03, 2008 3:54 pm
Location: pa.

blowing fuses

Post by mike69 » Thu Apr 23, 2009 12:41 pm

You may just have a loose connection somewhere in your wiring harness. Go over all of your male -female connections as well as all others. If a connection is loose it will create heat and eventually blow a fuse. If you have a dead short it will usually blow a fuse instantly.
66 Dream
78 Goldwing

DrScott
honda305.com Member
Posts: 19
Joined: Wed Mar 01, 2006 5:27 pm

Post by DrScott » Fri Apr 24, 2009 9:37 am

Thanks for that tip I will recheck them. Some of those old bullet connectors can be tough. I installed a new wire harness from Apexcycle which came with a 10 amp fuse. Later I thought to look at my parts book which listed a 15 amp. Which or what is correct? New handle bars from Apex should arrive any day and I will then be pulling and re-threading the wires that run inside the bars as well.
Thanks again.
SS

User avatar
davomoto
honda305.com Member
Posts: 2508
Joined: Sat Nov 18, 2006 7:36 pm
Location: Marin County CA

Post by davomoto » Fri Apr 24, 2009 3:02 pm

15 amp is correct .

davomoto

e3steve
h305 Moderator
Posts: 2601
Joined: Fri Oct 31, 2003 1:38 pm
Location: Mallorca, Spain & Warsash, UK

Post by e3steve » Sat Apr 25, 2009 7:48 am

For testing situations such as this, attach a pair of croc-clip wires to the hi-beam (60 Watt) filament of an H4 headlight bulb in place of the fuse during test procedures (be sure to employ a 5-amp charger, a battery tender or, at least, jump from a car batt to support the consumption if a procedure takes longer than 10 mins or so). The lamp will act as a current-limiter, burning at full brightness whilst the short circuit is present; it will reduce in brightness significantly while less demanding consumers ~ ignition system, neutral light, parking lights, etc. ~ are being fed. You can then work your way through the connections until the test lamp goes dim, thus pinpointing the source of the short.

Remove the tank so that you can work your way along the harness, flexing and jiggling to see if there's intermittency or chafing.

DrScott
honda305.com Member
Posts: 19
Joined: Wed Mar 01, 2006 5:27 pm

Post by DrScott » Sat Apr 25, 2009 10:18 am

Thanks so much for this tip. I'll dig out an old Harley headlight. I suspect that the intermittant short is in the handlebars as this first occured when I touched the horn button. Now it just happens when it happens. The wiring harness is new but that doesn't mean the connections are all tight as mentioned above. I've got some work to do.
SS

63 Dream
95 HD
60 Cushman Eagle

DrScott
honda305.com Member
Posts: 19
Joined: Wed Mar 01, 2006 5:27 pm

Post by DrScott » Mon Apr 27, 2009 10:24 am

I can't believe what I found. The hot wire to my horn(which dose not even work)was the offender. The insulating cover at the connector had slid back and would on/off touch the adj. nut int he middle of the throttle cable. My bad!
SS
Attachments
0421090848 (2).jpg

Post Reply
cron




 

CB-77 | CYP-77 | Road Test | Riding Log | Literature | Zen | Marketplace | VJ Survey | Links | Home