Lil SmokeyRe: Lil Smokeyactually it was the cr110. here is the website: <br />http://www.airtech-streamlining.com/hondaz/cr110.htm<br /><br />if i can remember correctly, the person that used the cr110 tank and seat said they had to modify the frame on the seat part so it would fit correctly.
Re: Lil Smokeyone more note,<br /><br />hey ace, do you have any problems with the main kickstand spring being too close to your tire? I just put on these new dunstall style mufflers and the kickstand wont go up fully. and it seems the spring is rubbing against the tire. since the bike isn't running yet, ill probably have to do some work and weld on a bracket to get that clearance. I guess the old muffler had a bit of a indention so the stand would go up all the way.
Re: Lil Smokeyhttp://www.classic-motorcycle-fiberglas ... nda.htm<br /><br />more racing tanks/seats... check the cb77 at the top.. nice!<br /><br /><br />sorry.. am i hijacking this thread?
Re: Lil SmokeyAirTech makes the CR-77 rep. tank as well.<br />As for the spring rubbing I had the same problem when I installed the Dunstall rep. silencers and a 3.50 rear tire. I adjusted the rubber grommet on the arm that ya put yer foot on to get it up on the stand. That kept it from rubbin and keeps it from bashing the silencer bottom.<br />The air cleaner question is age old... cleaner=clean air,no cleaner=dirty air ! The reason its so important on these bikes is the piston 2 wall clearance is tighter than a nuns ass and does not like those little dirt particles lapping the walls.<br />Ace if ya pull the carbs apart write down all the jet sizes and let me know what they are Im curious whats in there since its got the velocity tubes and megs on it. also curious how the plugs read.<br /><br /><br />georGe
Re: Lil SmokeyWell, guys, something is gonna have to come apart here. Please let me describe my ride yesterday, then scratch your heads and tell me what to do. Please. I finally got the fuel cock to at least stop gushing by , um, manipulating that little wavy washer under the fuel lever. SO, I fired it up, and, as usual she sprung to life. While warming up, I noticed the idle sort of going up and down, and when I turned the headlight on, it sort of went up and down, too. So I shut it down and got dressed for a ride. But then it wouldn't fire up again. Discovered after some trial that if I blipped the throttle while kicking, she comes right back to life, so off I rode. Very high on the funfactor, and sort of wierd, too. Number one, I couldn't really shift without huge effort, pushing and pulling up on the lever 2 or 3 times before it would go to the next gear. I mean sweaty effort. Also, during these rough times, the engine would rev way high, like sort of crazy. Finally it would shift up, and continue on it's way. As I remember it downshifting was sticky too, but not nearly as bad as upshifts. With the rear sets all you really have is the toe at the lever, and I had to boot it up sometimes with the portion of my foot after the toes, not an easy thing to do. I don't have a clue here, (you'll find I am pretty much clueless about most mechanical things), but am certainly willing to try. I,m gonna post more pix for you guys, including the shift lever as placed with the rear sets, and see what you think. Incidentally I have now discovered that this is the big bore.
Re: Lil SmokeyNo, I don't. I think the silencer is indented, but I'm also working on a 1951 BMW and it may be what I'm thinking of. The centerstand seems to work well.
Re: Lil Smokey<br /><br />Um, I wish I knew how to do this. That last post was in response to your question, jlerma.
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