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Honda Dream CA77 305 Points and Timing Walk-Through

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paperslammer
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Honda Dream CA77 305 Points and Timing Walk-Through

Post by paperslammer » Fri Jul 02, 2010 8:06 pm

As I do things, you get to learn too!

Ok, these are the things you will need

1) A 12V light. I chose this one because it had easy places to connect alligator clips. The lower the wattage the better too because it's less of a drain on your battery.
2) 2 wires with alligator clips on them
3) 0.014" Feeler gauge. 0.015" and 0.016" will also be helpful too.
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Here are the places you will unscrew. A is the points cover and B is the 'right side crank case cover' or dyno cover.

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Here's what they look like uncovered.
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First let's clean the points. Unscrew the points from the plate by taking off these screws.
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You'll also have to unscrew this bolt. Remember how all the parts go. This one will also want to shoot the end washer and bolt off into infinity, so be careful.
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Here are the points taken off of the bike. Clean of the points with some fine grit sand paper
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Once you've cleaned the points, put them back on the bike. Now you'll adjust the points so that the gap is 0.014" at it's widest opening. Rotate the dyno (explained below) so that the points are at their widest opening. To adjust the opening, you should have a screw (missing in my picture) where there is a thicker yellow arrow. You first loosen the two screws (indicated by the skinny yellow arrows) and then rotate the screw indicated by the thick yellow arrow to open / close the gap of the points.
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You can check if you've got it right by trying to put the 0.015" gauge in. You should have to gently force the 0.015" but the 0.014" should slide in easily.
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Retighten the screws to lock the points in place. Now we'll work on the timing. Attach one wire to the bolt of the point. Attach the other to the engine case. Both of these should go to the light we bought. We've created our little circuit. (Battery -> Light -> Ground -> Battery)
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Now, turn the bike to the on position so you get some electricity flowin. As you crank the bolt in the middle of the dyno, the marks on the dyno will pass the stationary pointer. You should line up the "F" with the golden pointer of justice.
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This should begin to slightly open the points. How do you know this is happening? Our light will come on. If it doesn't that means you need to adjust the points plate. Do this by loosening the screws indicated below and rotating the plate.
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So now as you rotate the dyno, the light should come on exactly when the golden pointer of justice and the "F" mark line up.
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And that's it! Put all the covers back on and you're done! It can be easier to turn the dyno if you take out the spark plugs because then you aren't fighting the compression. Good luck!

Shout out to Ed Moore's timing instructions and everyone who has contributed to this site! It's what enabled me to do this.
Last edited by paperslammer on Fri Oct 20, 2017 11:58 pm, edited 7 times in total.
'64 CA77 305 Dream

jensen
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Post by jensen » Sat Jul 03, 2010 12:20 am

Hi,

Good explanation with illustrations ! and cleaning the points can be done by a points file (to make sure the surfaces stay perfectly flat). And if you're there, lubricating the points pivot with a drop of oil wouldn't hurt either,

Jensen
assembly of Japanese motorcycles requires great peace of mind (Pirsig)

houseowax
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Post by houseowax » Sat Jul 03, 2010 1:12 am

Paperslammer, you have no idea how helpful these tutorials and pictures are. Part of what makes this forum so valuable is benefiting from both other's expertise, but a good part of it is having the support of other newcomers. Thanks for your generosity with your new found knowledge. I hope you'll keep posting these as you progress. Keep up the good work!
'63 CA77 - Giving me all kinds of headaches.
'64 CA77 - Patiently waiting it's turn
'65 CB77 - A 'great winter project'

joeweir1
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Post by joeweir1 » Sat Jul 03, 2010 8:03 am

Slammer...Nice photos and write-up.I had went out and bought a cheap pencil type test light and also I have used an ohm meter to do this that has a continuity beeper on it also.Something I noticed in the picture on your points plate is the adjustment seems to be rotated all the way clockwise leaving you with no room for adjustment.Do you have the correct points in the bike.From my experience the two pointers should be fairly close.I had someone from a Honda shop sell me points and my plate ended up like yours with it being adjusted all the way around.Turns out they sold me the wrong ones.The points arm that rides on the cam shaft was not correct.You may want to check into this. Anothr thing is I see your missing the little points adjuster eccentric.Should be in that hole next to the top screw.JW

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Hotshoe
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Post by Hotshoe » Sat Jul 03, 2010 8:38 am

Great post Slammer, you could be the new Clymer! As a newcomer to the forum myself getting reaquainted with 305's after alot of years way from them, I'm learning more in here than I ever knew to begin with and I thought I knew something about them!

paperslammer
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Post by paperslammer » Sat Jul 03, 2010 11:13 am

I'm glad everyone finds my posts useful! I'll be sure to keep it up.
jensen wrote:Good explanation with illustrations ! and cleaning the points can be done by a points file (to make sure the surfaces stay perfectly flat). And if you're there, lubricating the points pivot with a drop of oil wouldn't hurt either
Thanks!
joeweir1 wrote:Slammer...I noticed in the picture on your points plate is the adjustment seems to be rotated all the way clockwise leaving you with no room for adjustment.Do you have the correct points in the bike.From my experience the two pointers should be fairly close.
Hmm..these are the points that came with the bike when I bought it, but there is another one sitting in a box the guy gave me that also looks used, so maybe he switched them out?
joeweir1 wrote:I had someone from a Honda shop sell me points and my plate ended up like yours with it being adjusted all the way around.Turns out they sold me the wrong ones.The points arm that rides on the cam shaft was not correct.You may want to check into this.
I got the points gap and the timing to work out with the current points. Would incorrect points have any affect on the performance of the bike if the points and timing are correct?
joeweir1 wrote:Another thing is I see your missing the little points adjuster eccentric.Should be in that hole next to the top screw.JW
Yikes what does that points adjuster do?

Thanks again for all the comments!
'64 CA77 305 Dream

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brewsky
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Post by brewsky » Sat Jul 03, 2010 6:15 pm

Nice job!
The eccentric screw that is missing allows you to adjust the gap with a screwdriver.
66 dream, 78 cb750k, 02fz1, 09 wing

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