Honda Dream CA77 305 Points and Timing Walk-Through

[LOUD MOUSE]

if you're static timing the bike (engine not running) be sure to use the timing line closest to the TDC line. In other words, the points should be opening almost at TDC (top dead center = piston at very top of stroke). <<<<<<<<The line furthest away from the TDC line is for timing with a strobe light.>>>>>>>>

I'm not sure where you got the above.
Are you stating the timing light will flash before the points open?
I have used the static timing point at "F", "LF" since the early 60's and when I finally could afford a timing light I found setting the points static then checking with the timing light "I was spot on". I did this for a while and once I was satisfied "I could do without the timing light check" I offered what you see in the FAQ section of this forum. Not everyone can afford a timing light and today the vehicles need a computer wizard to adjust anything, "if the problem can be adjusted" not just replaced. A couple of alligator clips, 2 pieces of wire and 1 light bulb ($1.50 +-) and the engine can be tuned.
A couple of questions for stepper, What point gap do you have, have you had the engine apart which would cause you to reinstall the cam chain? .................lm

Before offering some suggestions for you to try, if you're static timing the bike (engine not running) be sure to use the timing line closest to the TDC line. In other words, the points should be opening almost at TDC (top dead center = piston at very top of stroke). The line furthest away from the TDC line is for timing with a strobe light.

Couple things you can do if the points are still opening too early even with the points plate fully rotated in the clockwise direction

1. Remove points backing plate and file/grind away some material to allow the plate to rotate further in the clockwise direction.

2. Reduce the points gap slightly. This will also cause the points to open later. (dwell won't be so wonderful, but it'll get you down the road)

3. You could also very slightly bend upwards the fixed points contact. Then re-dress the points contact surfaces to make them parallel, sort of.... (ditto the above)

Remember to put a very small amount of grease on the points cam to reduce wear at the points rubbing block.
The reason you're running out of adjustment is because the rubbing block on your points is worn down.
I did the above to my Dream and it runs fine. Rode it to work yesterday.

Doesn't hurt to have a store of guerilla repair tricks, they can get you home when others remain stranded!

[LOUD MOUSE]

Seems so simple.
Here we have 1 plug and one coil with our 180 degree engines and a automobile can have one set of points and one coil and fire eight plugs.
WOW!. ............lm

It's as Malcom says. With closed points current flows through the primary part of the ignition coil. When the points open the current in the coil collapses and the coil momentarily becomes a transformer.

The spark plug is in circuit with the secondary part of the coil and this has many more turns. Just like a normal transformer, the ratio of turns causes a voltage amplification and this causes a voltage of around 6000v across the plug points which is enough to jump the gap.

The points gap is just a convenient way of setting the "build-up" time which is the dwell angle.

G

[stepper]

Thanks Nick for the help. I'm thinking I might just get a new set of points. Upon further inspection there does seem to be a bit of black residue on the points cam from grinding away at the block.
The little spongey looking thing is also worn down or deteriorated to the point that it's not even close to touching the cam.

A couple of questions for stepper, What point gap do you have, have you had the engine apart which would cause you to reinstall the cam chain? .................lm

I think I have it at .014. When fitting a .013 gauge, the gauge slips in with only the slightest of drag if the gauge is not flat. .015 also fits but seems to have drag throughout. .014 feels similar to .013 but just slightly tighter.

I just bought the bike a few weeks ago but it definitely does look like the engine was taken apart as the entire bike looks to have been restored.

Using Paperslammer's outlined technique, the light is turning on when the pointer is hitting the big grey dot before the "F" mark. Which is a good 20-30 degrees early.

[LOUD MOUSE]

Take a look at this for me.
With the "T" at the pointer is the line on the points cam straight with the CENTER of the HEAD/cylinder?. .................lm

Thanks Nick for the help. I'm thinking I might just get a new set of points. Upon further inspection there does seem to be a bit of black residue on the points cam from grinding away at the block.
The little spongey looking thing is also worn down or deteriorated to the point that it's not even close to touching the cam.

A couple of questions for stepper, What point gap do you have, have you had the engine apart which would cause you to reinstall the cam chain? .................lm

I think I have it at .014. When fitting a .013 gauge, the gauge slips in with only the slightest of drag if the gauge is not flat. .015 also fits but seems to have drag throughout. .014 feels similar to .013 but just slightly tighter.

I just bought the bike a few weeks ago but it definitely does look like the engine was taken apart as the entire bike looks to have been restored.

Using Paperslammer's outlined technique, the light is turning on when the pointer is hitting the big grey dot before the "F" mark. Which is a good 20-30 degrees early.

[stepper]

HEre are some pics of the settings you requested:

I dunno, looks like it could be off by a couple of negative degrees.

After looking at the magnified pics I went out and aligned the pointer to the "T" mark a bit better but it didn't look to change much on the cam.

[LOUD MOUSE]

With what you have described and show I'd say it is "1" tooth off time. ................lm

HEre are some pics of the settings you requested:

I dunno, looks like it could be off by a couple of negative degrees.

After looking at the magnified pics I went out and aligned the pointer to the "T" mark a bit better but it didn't look to change much on the cam.

[stepper]

With what you have described and show I'd say it is "1" tooth off time. ................lm

DAMN!!!!
And with your ongoing track record I am betting you are right!

Looks like I'm going to be learning how to drop a motor soon.

Thanks Loud Mouse