Can some walk me through how to remove the dynamo?

[readyjimm]

So from what I can find. There is a oil seal behind the dynamo/ magneto. But can someone explain how to remove it to actually replace the oil seal? I can't seem to figure out how it comes off. Thanks in advance.

[mike in idaho]

The rotor mounts on the tapered end of the crankshaft. Removing the bolt in the center exposes a set off threads in the center of the rotor. To remove it, the right size bolt is threaded in against the end of the crank to push it off.

[rzgkane]

So from what I can find. There is a oil seal behind the dynamo/ magneto. But can someone explain how to remove it to actually replace the oil seal? I can't seem to figure out how it comes off. Thanks in advance.

The seal that is leaking is more likely the starter sprocket seal and not the crankshaft seal. I bought my starter sprocket seal from:

Customer Service
Best Parts Online
714-715-6062
sales@bestpartsonline.com

http://www.bestpartsonline.com/servlet/StoreFront

The dimension is 20 x 30 x 5. The outfit had the seal in my hands in 2 days.

[readyjimm]

I've pulled off the case, but I never found all of the seals. where exactly is the starter sprocket seal?

Thanks

[rzgkane]

I've pulled off the case, but I never found all of the seals. where exactly is the starter sprocket seal?

Thanks

Check here:

http://www.honda305.com/forums/crank-se ... 876-7.html

You have to remove several items to get at the crank seal and starter sprocket seal. The crank seal is in the crankcase behind the stator, rotor and starter sprocket. The starter sprocket seal is in the sprocket at the rear side. Not a hard job, but search the forum for crankshaft seal replacement threads and you'll have a ton of info that is necessary to only doing it ONCE!

Below is a pic of the various parts, including the starter sprocket on the right, the crankshaft seal at the top and the charging stator on the left. The seal that's probably doing most of the leaking in your bike is not shown, but is located in the bore of the crankshaft's starter sprocket. You'll need to remove the circlip that holds the starter chain sprocket to the starter and then remove the starter's sprocket in order to remove the crankshaft's starter sprocket. Not difficult.


IMG_0602 by rzgkane, on Flickr

Here's a list of things to watch for as you go through the process. I am by no means an expert. Just a guy who went where you are about to go and noticed a few things along the way.

I have to caution you. If you're not experienced in mechanical repairs you'd be well-served to have someone with you who is. While this repair is not difficult, there are a few tricky things to overcome or you'll be doing it again shortly.

1. Removing the stator requires caution - I would disconnect its 3 wires and the neutral switch wire (that is grouped with the stator wires) AND remove the neutral switch and pull the stator and nuetral switch all completely out of the bike and set them aside.

2. Removing the rotor may result in the guts of the starter clutch falling out. If so, it takes some tinkering to get it back together - sometimes the springs and cups are damaged - if so, HONDA still sells them. Get new guts before you put it back together.

3. Remove the sharp edges from the case halves with an exacto knife and smooth them with emory cloth before you try and jam the new crankshaft seal in there or it will end up looking like the pic I posted - ruined - and you waiting for a new seal.

4. When removing the sharp edges, cover the crank bearing with a rag or other similar material to prevent any shavings from getting in there as you work. Metal shavings and bearings hate each other.

5. Clean the case where the crank seal will go with brake cleaner. Use 3M weatherstrip adhesive (aka Gorilla Snot) around the perimeter of the new crankishaft seal to facilitate its installation, and retention once in.

6. Make sure the new seal is completely seated and countersunk to the case (about 1mm) before reassembly. If not, the starter clutch sprocket will bind against it and not spin freely when you tighten the 10mm bolt holding the sprocket rentention bracket down.

7. Wrap a loop or two of electrical tape around the end of the crank to prevent damaging the starter sprocket seal when sliding the sprocket onto the assembly.

8. Installing the rotor can be a tad tricky because you have to do two things at once; push the starter sprocket dogs back into their houses while at the same time getting the rotor to fit over the keyway and onto the crank. Line the keyway slot in the rotor about 1.5 hours counter-clockwise of the keyway and spin the rotor clockwise to push in the dogs and line up the keyway to the slot. Always lube the crank seal's inner surface with a little engine oil before you try and slide the starter sprocket rotor back on.

9. And make sure the rotor is sliding back onto the crank without binding. If not, you risk f'ing up the rotor or keyway. You shouldn't have to wail away at the crank bolt too hard to get the rotor to seat.

May the Schwartz be with you.