Tytronic electronic ignition

[danielzink]

As a followup to this...

I received my Tytronic yesterday and set about installing it as soon as I got home from work.

I chose to completely eliminate the condenser from the circuit - I wrapped the wires up and zip tied them together and tucked them back up on top of the cylinder.

I wired the Tytronic blue wire directly to the coil (eliminating any connection to the green wire) and spliced in the red wire with the existing black wire with a new spade connector at the coil.

As expected - the timing was way off - so I modified the plate to properly trigger spark.

Bike runs well....

But....a new "fly in the ointment"....

The points cover won't fit back on....

The red module on the plate is too tall and fouls the cover.

I'm not upset...actually kind of laughing..."it's always something"...

Now to figure out some sort of "spacer"....anyone have a 3D printer ?

:D :D :D :D

Dan

[DJM]

Looking at your post, and the original one from raydyke,it seems to me it may not have been necessary to redrill the mounting plate.

It seems that there is some scope for rotating the trigger collar around the points cam, possibly enough to correct the timing without drilling the plate. Turning the rotor anticlockwise has the same effect as turning the base plate clockwise.

Given that the camshaft and thus points drive shaft rotates at half crankshaft speed, thus only 10 degrees of movement at the points shaft would adjust the ignition by 20 degrees at the crank,

It seems that there is some scope for rotating the new rotor / trigger collar around the points cam, possibly enough to correct the timing without drilling the plate. Moving the rotor as far anti-clockwise as far as it will go before tightening the securing screws might just achieve the desired timing, if not just slotting the holes a bit could perhaps then have achieved the desired result.

Either way, it seems that the kit, or perhaps just the instructions are not entirely 'fit for purpose' as they don't give the results promised, surely this is something that should be taken up with the manufacturer or supplier.

Personally I wouldn't bother with the kit at all as the standard system, properly set up will perform perfectly well; raydyke, just remind us why you decided to leave the condenser in place?

Dr Frankenstein, did you ever fit your kit and did you encounter any problems, please share your experiences, that's why this site works so well.

DJM

[danielzink]

Looking at your post, and the original one from raydyke,it seems to me it may not have been necessary to redrill the mounting plate.

It seems that there is some scope for rotating the trigger collar around the points cam, possibly enough to correct the timing without drilling the plate. Turning the rotor anticlockwise has the same effect as turning the base plate clockwise.

Given that the camshaft and thus points drive shaft rotates at half crankshaft speed, thus only 10 degrees of movement at the points shaft would adjust the ignition by 20 degrees at the crank,

Tried that.

No go.

When rotating the crank by hand with the plate in it's stock form it didn't even come close to firing at the "F" mark.

Upon removing the screws and manually rotating the plate (with the flywheel stationary at the "F") you can get to where the LED comes on.

That point is where the new holes are made.

Now...as the flywheel is rotated and it comes around to the "F" the LED turns on at the correct time.

As Raydike said...and I as well.

"Bike runs great"

Either way, it seems that the kit, or perhaps just the instructions are not entirely 'fit for purpose' as they don't give the results promised, surely this is something that should be taken up with the manufacturer or supplier.

Can't speak for everyone...but I like tinkering....your experience may not be the same as mine....

please share your experiences, that's why this site works so well.

Exactly....see above.....

Dan

[DJM]

If you're happy and the bike runs well, that's the main thing really.

How much do these kits cost and do they do one for the CB and CL models, perhaps I'm missing a trick,

I still don't like the idea of drilling extra holes in new parts, here in the UK, if there was a subsequent problem the 'modifications' would be enough to void any warranty.

[raydike]

With my bike I could just get the cover to fit, maybe a 61 C77 has a slightly bigger cover?
I left the condenser in (but not connected) because if the tytronic unit dies I can easily replace it with the original points. I keep the original points and plate in the side cover.

[DJM]

My point exactly, subconsciously at least you are prepared for the eventually that the tytronic unit may fail; even in 2020 we're all suspicious of electronic wizardry.
By comparison, how many of us with a standard set up carry a spare set of points or a condenser inside their side covers?

[raydike]

Well, I also like tinkering. And the bike runs very smoothly with the electronic ignition. But you might be right, I don't trust cheap Chinese electronics too much so I like a back-up. Once me and my brother on his Russian Ural bike got stranded on a holiday in France because of a failed capacitor in his Russian electronic ignition. No spare set then.