Engine removal?

malcolmgb · Post by **malcolmgb** » Wed Aug 28, 2013 4:42 pm

Is it possible to remove the engine from the frame without first taking the left cylinder exhaust port studs out, they are corroded in and are likely to shear, I was hoping to get some heat on them once the engine is dismantled.

Rickytic · Post by **Rickytic** » Wed Aug 28, 2013 8:53 pm

I believe it is possible but you will for sure bugger some paint, scar the frame and have a tough time with removing the engine without removing the studs first. There will also be a lot of grunting and groaning, cussing and just plain frustration. Try soaking the studs with liquid wrench for a few days, put two nuts on the stud and tighten them together then try to move them back and forth with a wrench until they come loose (if they will). The heat on the studs while the engine is still in the fram might also work. Good luck.

malcolmgb · Post by **malcolmgb** » Thu Aug 29, 2013 12:43 pm

Paint is not an issue the frame is to be blasted and powder coated, tried the 2 nut method which is my prefered way, it is difficult to get any oil to soak in with it facing downwards that is why I wanted to remove first, I don't have any power in my garage for heat gun, I could try a gas torch but reluctant to use a flame on the engine.

Rickytic · Post by **Rickytic** » Thu Aug 29, 2013 1:12 pm

If you are going to replace the studs, you might try to put two nuts on the stud and twist them all the way down, cut the stud off even with the nuts, remove the engine and continue as you were going to. Cutting the studs off after you put the nuts on will probably give you the space you need to get the motor out. Additionally, when you back the nuts off it will straighten the threads. After you get the motor out, you might want to remove one of the nuts, weld the other nut to the stud, heat the stud up with a torch and twist with a wrench. Just some options and hints that have worked for me in the past.

Hoosier Tom · Post by **Hoosier Tom** » Thu Aug 29, 2013 2:27 pm

I use a propane torch and heat the engine close to the stud. If that isn't enough to break it loose I use this method on thermostat housings on car motors and have used it once on a 305 motor. Heat the stud, get it hot, then take a wax crayon and melt into the stud/machined area. The wax should draw down into the machined threads. Let it cool then double nut it.

HT

malcolmgb · Post by **malcolmgb** » Thu Aug 29, 2013 5:38 pm

Thanks both, looks like the stud has to come out first then. Hoosier Tom not heard of the wax crayon trick, may try it, but if the stud doesn't come out on heat alone how can the wax get between threads.

LOUD MOUSE · Post by **LOUD MOUSE** » Thu Aug 29, 2013 6:50 pm

?????????????????????. ........lm

malcolmgb wrote:Thanks both, looks like the stud has to come out first then. Hoosier Tom not heard of the wax crayon trick, may try it, but if the stud doesn't come out on heat alone how can the wax get between threads.