1962 Superhawk Restoration: Here I go

[LOUD MOUSE]

YES. .............lm

Hah, great. I drilled the extra hole last night. What do you mean by "it is the new issue?" Are you saying that its a redesigned gas cap design that didn't need the hole?

Don't drill the gas cap. It is the new issue. .................lm

[Spargett]

Gun, I watched your restore. She cleaned up nicely. I bit of an inspiration for myself watching how you just jumped in. Looks like you had a pair of delicate hands helping as well ; )

glad that i'm not the only 25 year old anymore! Good to know that this bikes appeal is timeless!

[Spargett]

This was my first "take apart" while installing a "new" set of carbs from a 64 Superhawk that I picked up from e3steve. Had them shipped from Spain. He was an immense help with that. thanks Steve. You'll see there was quite a bit of corrosion on the battery. Surprised that came about in only a few weeks. Got that all cleaned up. I've heard that rubbing a little Vaseline can prevent this.



Needs alot of general cleaning and painting. There's a slight oil leak under the valve cover. About to replace the gasket on that. The original carbs on here, which were very problematic and have since been replaced.

I think I'd like to paint the engine case in leu of not having access for a sandblaster. I think I've heard two different paint types reccoemended.

- Krylon Dull Aluminum 1403
- Dupont IMRON 45040U (per LM)

Thoughts?



The rims look beyond savable. I'm thinking it might be smarter to order rims and tires at the time and have a professional install them, due to the logistical issues of being new to this with pain I've been warned this is.



Does anyone know what these rubber parts are suppose to be doing here? It certainly doesn't look like they're doing anything right now. Make note of the (apparently) low quality aftermarket shocks. I'm thinking about whether or not to get the same ones when I replace them or try and order some replacements truer to the originals. I've seen these (HONDA SUPERHAWK CB72 CB77 CP77 REAR SHOCK ABSORBER NEW). A little expensive ($162), but if they're decent quality, I guess they'd be worth it. Looks like there's only one set left as well.

[Spargett]

Here's a shot of my original badges. They sure are beautiful, so much detail in there. Though, they've seen better days. They've been warped from the sun, causing them to bow outwards. Which keeps them from sitting flush against the chrome tank covers.





In this photo the plastic cracks are more apparent that can be found on both badges. I doubt there's much that can be done to fix this. Maybe some sort of buffing that can remove more of the surface scratches and nicks?

Its a real shame considering these go for $300+.

[Spargett]

Per previous related thread: How to remove the kick start lever to replace clutch cable?

Well, I finally got the crankcase cover off. Had to bend a perfectly good thick screwdriver to do it. I was yanking so hard on that thing it was dragging the bike clear across the garage. Hah. I certainly had the last laugh on that one. The inside of the case was a little dirty, but to my eye everything looked fine. I personally don't see a reason to clean it, everything appeared to have proper lubrication.



I do seem to be missing the clutch spring. I didn't notice it come out when I took the case off, and looked all over the clean floor with a 500w light. Still nothing. I rode the bike a few times before and didn't notice it being too bad, maybe it was never there!? The only thing that came "out" was this particular little guy just resting within the floor of the crankcase housing amongst the grime, just under the chain.

I've read on here that its recommended to switch to a 425 clutch spring. Does anyone know a part number or where to acquire one? The parts manual's listing of this spring is a tad confusing. I'd love to get my clutch cable installed as soon as possible. Most likely with the aftermarket 425 spring.

As always, more to come tomorrow. I look forward to hearing all of your input!

[Gun]

the rubber parts on the rear brake cable are the reminents of a former colapsable sleeve that sheltered the cable and allowed the cable to move without crunching the cables casing each time the brake was pressed.


take a heat gun and SLOW heat those badges on a flat surface, may be able to get them to lay flat.
you could paint that back and fix the painted issue no problem, i'd recommend doing a few thin layers on there to ensure reflected light off of the chrome doesn't go shinning though.

the scuffs and scratches can be polished out with some acetone i think. i've only done it once, and it worked well.

[davomoto]

I'd recomend that you completely disassemble everything, and give it a proper cleaning and lubrication. Make sure to re-install the 5/16 ball bearing in to the clutch lifter thread.

davomoto