1962 Superhawk Restoration: Here I go

[e3steve]

SOmeone please take this and run. !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!LM

In which direction?

Scott: clutch adjuster = lifter thread -- 22841-266-000. The seal to which Ed refers is in the end of the gearbox final drive shaft (lip seal type 8x21x6 -- 91205-259-000 -- from any good bearing supplier or hydraulics shop) upon which the drive chain sprocket is mounted.

[Spargett]

2) Bolt looks like the one for the throttle housing, but it looks larger so I may be mistaken.

I double checked the screw. Measures about 0.6" and takes a 9mm socket. Here's an updated photo

3) Headers, if stock, are right/left specific, and should have a L and an R stamped on them at muffler end, bottom side.

I checked the headers, which are aftermarket from Apex Cycles. The stock headers were beaten up very badly, taking alot of road abuse over the years. There's what appears to be a small "S" stamped on the end of one, and "|" on the other. I switched them each out on different sides and didn't see much a difference. Guess its time to start bending?

5) The cable should be sticking out of the end about 1/2 inch. You probably have a broken inner cable. Retrobikes sells repro cables.

I pulled the pieces off. The tachometer gear wasn't installed into the cylinder head cover that houses the throttle cable. That was enough to give it all the perfect amount of length. Thanks for confirming something was fishy.

[e3steve]

I double checked the screw. Measures about 0.6" and takes a 9mm socket.

Sorry to state the obvious, me ol' Hondabuddy, but see if it actually fits the lower throttle shell. The nut attached to the grub screw in the pic looks like a plain nut and not a locknut, which would be half-thickness.

[Spargett]

Sorry to state the obvious, me ol' Hondabuddy, but see if it actually fits the lower throttle shell. The nut attached to the grub screw in the pic looks like a plain nut and not a locknut, which would be half-thickness.

Hah, no worries Steve. I just didn't have a chance to get back into the garage so I thought I'd do the "research" portion in the mean time. Sure enough, it's for the throttle housing. What exactly does it do?

[e3steve]

It adjusts pressure against a crescent of spring steel inside the lower throttle cave which, in turn, applies friction to the throttle return. Some riders like to be able to remove their hand from the throttle and still maintain a degree of gas. My personal preference, for safety's sake, is no friction at all.

[davomoto]

Adds friction to the throttle. tighten it up enough, and you too can have a " dead mans throttle" !

davomoto

[Spargett]

So I'm having a problem with the throttle sticking. The housing had what appeared to by moly grease, which was cleaned out before polishing and reassembly. The response was slow and inconsistent before hand as well.

I reassembled everything and the throttle snapped back nicely. I thought that I should prob add some sort of lubricant. I added just a tiny amount of white lithium grease to the inside of the housing and under the grip on the bar. That didn't seem to help anything at all (seemed to make things worse), so I removed using some carb cleaner and wiped everything out and down perfectly, then reassembled. Still the same problem. This time I tried a bit of W30 oil on the bar, which didn't have much an effect.

- The throttle screw underneath exhibited no change whatsoever.
- The cable snaps back really nicely when everything is disassembled and I pull on the end of the cable and let go.
- I even loosened the throttle/starter housing to no effect as well.

So what's the trick? Does the cable possibly need tension? It was working just fine the first time around. Here's a video of what I'm dealing with. The green tape is there for reference.