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stuck motor from sitting

shooter_bighorn@yahoo.com
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stuck motor from sitting

Post by shooter_bighorn@yahoo.com » Thu Sep 09, 2010 11:44 am

ok yesterday i saved on from the crusher 1965 superhawk so the fine people of this forum told me thank you, the transmission shifts fine but motor is stuck from sitting , i took the pipes off and putt oil on the exhuast vavles should i take carbs off as well and dump some in there? help is oil best to un stick or something else any hints or advice would be appreciated thanks in advance.

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davomoto
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Post by davomoto » Thu Sep 09, 2010 1:15 pm

Pull out the spark plugs, and shoot some good penetrating oil in there. PB B;aster, Aero Kroil, and search this forum under stuck motor or stuck engine for ideas.
davomoto
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cyclon36
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Post by cyclon36 » Thu Sep 09, 2010 3:28 pm

yup, just like davo posted. empty out a whole bottle into that sucker and don't be stingy. It might take a few days for it to break free. Whatever the case, and engine rebuild is eminent.

rdefabri
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Location: NJ

Post by rdefabri » Mon Sep 13, 2010 8:08 am

I'll third those comments - my CL77 had been sitting for about 17 years in my garage. I pulled plugs, put some oil in, changed the engine oil, cleaned out the tank, replaced battery, and cleaned the points.

Took a few kicks - but not more than 5-6 - she started right up!

Good luck and good job saving her :)

chrisnoel
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Bottom end?

Post by chrisnoel » Tue Sep 14, 2010 10:14 pm

Are the crank rods abble to be accesed and taken appart from the bottom of the trani case? If they are coroded too badly they could then be freed one at a time from the block.

Have heard of one person using a hole saw on the pistons till they cut through the wrist pins. Saved the crank rods by removing the pilot bit before it damaged the rods.

phactory
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Post by phactory » Wed Sep 15, 2010 9:42 am

What I do for stuck motors is as follows:

Put some form of penetrating oil in the cylinders.
Let sit for at least a couple of days, the longer the better.
Use a torch and heat the jugs.
Put the bike in gear and bump the engine gently using the rear wheel.
You will know when it breaks free!!

This has never failed me and has never hurt any engine I have done it to.

The heat breaks up the rust between the rings and the bores, and using the transmission/rear wheel, saves the kicker mechanism.

Good luck, Phil

P.S. I have found SILI KROIL to be the best penetrating oil I have used!

Glenardo
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Post by Glenardo » Wed Sep 15, 2010 10:15 pm

The BEST penetrating oil I have found for any rusty nuts & bolts is Ford Type "F" transmission fluid. I didn't believe it either until I tried it. Had some rusty strut rods off of my '61 Ranchero. I tried everything to break the rear nuts free. Penetrating oil, torches, etc... finally got it broke free but couldn't unthread the nut more than 1/2 a turn. An old alignment guy told to use it. I filled a jar and let is soak overnight. The next day I could unthreaded it w/ a wrench. Now I have a squirt oil can filled with it and give a couple squirts to any rusty bolt first before I start working and time I have my tools out it's ready to go. And that car has alot of rusty nuts and bolts!!

Trust me.. try it

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