Hey Deez! Cool we'll definitely go for a ride soon. Gotta get the 305's in shape for the next Melee!
I have to chase down some oil leaks and then I'll be set. By the way my CL77 is Davo's old bike. We rebuilt the tranny after a couple gears got munched! Keeping it in the family!!
As for the condenser testing... I've been reading this on the vintage tractor forum.
***It's really good stuff but a bit over my head.
Check it out to see if it makes sense:
http://www.smokstak.com/forum/showthread.php?t=21175
If you can get through it, you'll be an expert!
I'll try to check my motor soon to see where the points position are as you described.
-David
tuning recipe need help, suggestions and insight
Add your location to your profile?. ...............lm
Also - the right side points should just be opening as you cross the "F" mark with the rotor turning in the direction of engine running.
And I always use a timing light after I static time it and I always adjust final timing while running at full advance to be sure that it never advances beyond the max line. I believe this is explained in the Bill Silver books. Let me know how it goes. I have an extra condenser if you need swap your old one to test. -David david i didnt know you knew davo! yeah if it wasnt for davo i would never built this bike. he built my motor and did a great job! pretty much helped me the whole way. i know that at "F" the right points crack open which in turn gives the light you have connected a few volts ( around 4volts )to light it up. the main question is that at "F" when the right points crack open are the left points supposed to be open? because when im at "LF" ( the right points are open when the left just crack open allowing all 12 volts to make the light bright ) well ill have some time on saturday to check the condenser and such. im just really curious about this since this is the first time i have encountered the dim bulb scenerio.
-cheers -deez
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