Hi All,
Last year, I picked up a ca77 project. after rebuilding everything and reassembling the bike, I went to drive it home from the shop. I am somewhat certain that I was able to shift during the 10 minutes that it ran, but i do recall the clutch being very stiff. Part way home, the clutch lever snapped in half.
I have since torn off both the left and right engine covers looking for problems, searched this board and consulted my manual. The most likely culprit that I can find is the clutch springs... when compressed to the point that they would be with the clutch screws threaded in all the way, there is only +/- 1mm left to compress. since the lever is broken, I have been trying to disengage it by wedging a prybar underneath the lip on the stator housing and prying the pushrod inwards.. presumably exerting more force on it in this manner than the lever/cable assembly could have.
Other interesting facts:
-the pushrod is true
-I cannot be entirely sure that the clutch worked at all when I got it, though I do know that it was ridable, and that the previous owner complained of clutch slippage in 3rd ear
-if I losen off all four clutch spring screws, it becomes possible to disengage the clutch
-if I completely remove two of the four spring screws, I still cannot disengage the clutch
-if I remove one of the 5 corks, the pressure plate will no longer contact the outermost cork (I tried this experiment hoping that I had simply put one too many plates into the basket).
-i have reinstalled the springs that came with the bike, though I do not recall if the screws retaining them were seated all the way
Does anyone have the measurements for the springs that should be in there? or better yet, any other ideas about what could be wrong?
Any thoughts?
thanks,
bc
clutch will not disengageIs the correct size ball bearing installed in the clutch thread? Is the pushrod the correct length? Do you have the correct cable holer in the side cover, so it angles the cable to where it hooks in the clutch thread? Is your clutch cable properly routed, no kinks, nice smooth curves, routed under fuel tank. One of these items is the most likely culprit. You can also do a search for clutch pull on this site.
davomoto gramey7: Thanks. I measured my springs and found them about 1mm longer than that (even in thier old age, so I assumed that they must be the wrong ones). So I ordered up some replacements from honda based on the part #s on my microfiche. They arrived yesterday. The springs that they sent are identical to the ones that I had, so I am back to the drawing board.
davemoto: I believe that the ball is correct since I can disengage if I back the springs off The pushrod fits & adjusts properly with the clutch, ball right sidecover installed, so I think its right My cable holder is perfectly vertical (I was not aware that there was any other kind).. but the inner comes out of it to the adjuster at a comfortable angle. The cable slides free when disconnected from the clutch, so I assume the routing is correct. I am starting to wonder if I have a mismatched basket/pressure place combination. Im going to tear the clutch back down again tonight and try to find what I have missed. Does anyone know what that wire retainer near the bottom of the basket is for? I cannot figure that thing out either... it doesnt appear to do anything. Cheers, bc VG, a lot of assuming going on. Get Bill Silvers engine repair guide. It will explain correct length for pushrod, correct size ball bearing, what the wire in the clutch basket is for etc. I have rebuilt 10 or more 305 engines, and still refer often to the guide when doing engine work on a 305 engine. If you just refuse to order the book, try searching this site, type in clutch pull, and you'll find many threads.
davomoto
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