no gears except first and neutral...
Not worth the effort.
You need to remove the side covers and all parts on the left side and then when ya remove the bottom case the gears will fall out and just imagine working inside the top case and installing the gears and bottom case. It's no great deal to remove the engine and then work from the bottom. Ya just got to get at it. ....lm
not sure if this should be a new topic or not--and sorry If I've hijacked the topic for a moment
Upon review of what I had, I found that my friction disk and plate count differ from that in the clutch diagram. I have 5 friction disks, 6 clutch plate B and one clutch plate A behind a clutch plate stopper ring on the clutch center. there are two additional grooves for stopper rings but no rings. the diagram only shows one additional ring. could this be my problem?
Hijack away. I'm going to start a new thread when I dismantle my transmission.
There are several posts on the topic of correct clutch setup. I think the consensus is there should be 5 friction discs. That said, there's a lot of variation in the thickness of the friction discs available. I had six discs in my clutch and it worked.
HONDA had 5 different designs for the clutch.
The 1966/67 "Cush Drive" was the answer. Thick first steel and 5 aluminum core neoprene with 5 steel plates. The Main Basket and the center and pressure plate and springs (white paint springs) are designed to be used as a assembly and cured the slipping clutch problem which had bedeviled the engines for some time. Lots of folks purchased the BARNETT clutch to cure this. The cush drive was/is IMO far superior to the BARNETT clutch.
I found LM's explained order in a previous post. there was no mention of year of that bike. Mine is a 65 but I'll give it a shot because this is closest to the parts I have.
"Thick steel-wire-fiber-steel-wire-fiber-steel-fiber-steel-fiber-steel-fiber-pressure plate. .............lm " question though, is there a way to tell from the basket parts which setup may work best? I've seen two different diagrams, the one in Bill Silvers book and the one on Western Hills microfiche. I was short a wire ring so ordered that, and had two plates back to back after the 5th friction plate. Guy I bought it from claimed to have had Honda in his area fix it. I've never heard of the config he had in there Thanks
You have the Cush Drive outer and a Mid Issue center.
You need to replace the center hub for the one which ya can have the thick first plate installed and 2 of the wires installed also. It appears that you have the Thin First Steel Plate and I recommend you either place 2 of the thin plates together or get the correct thick one. Your friction disc are the ones HONDA sells now for these engines but are thinner than the previous Aluminum Core ones and this requires 6 rather than 5 for the clutch to work correctly. In 1966 HONDA designed the Cush Drive assy. and finally solved the slipping clutch problem that happened all to often. (even redesigned the springs) The entire assy was redesigned (5 different designs in all) and works and it is what I use in the Mouse and it is smooth as can be and although I didn't start or ride the Mouse for 2 years when I started it a couple of weeks ago to get it to the MC shop for state inspection the clutch wasn't stuck and was perfect on release. (30W non-detergent oil) I recommend ya replace your assy to the cush drive assy. ...........lm
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