Off-the-shelf CL72 baffles

[Hank Dymale]

Using an old/new CL72 baffle as an example, I made baffles for the straight pipes on my newly rebuilt CL77. I didn't like that muffler thing. 1"X3/4" adapters, a length of 3/4" copper tubing, and a 3/4" tube cap, were used to construct the baffles for approximately $10 apiece.

The hex end of both adapters were cut off. The interior lip on the second adapter was filed off using a rat tail file so it can be slipped onto the tubing. Be sure to install the adapters onto the tube before cutting and reforming the tube per the original design. Six rows of holes (again per original design) were drilled into the tubing. The baffles are held together using plumbers solder. I don't believe the exhaust pipe will reach 380-400 F and melt the solder, but if necessary pop rivets can also be used.

The O.D. of this baffle tends to be a little larger than the I.D. of the exhaust pipes, so a little grinding will be necessary to hand fit the baffles to each exhaust pipe. Don't worry, the copper is soft and easy to file/grind and little need be removed to have a tight fit. Several 1" pipe threads will be left in the baffle exterior port after the hex end removal, but these can be put to good use if the baffles ever become stuck in the pipes. Just screw in a 1" pipe nipple and pull.

I haven't used these baffles for any extended length of time, but they appear to be sturdy and should hold up well. Obviously it will be easy to rebuild them with off-the-shelf parts in the future if necessary. They reduce exhaust noise substantially to a nice deep throaty sound.

Would appreciate any comments or questions.

[G-Man]

Great work!

Thanks for sharing.

G

Using an old/new CL72 baffle as an example, I made baffles for the straight pipes on my newly rebuilt CL77. I didn't like that muffler thing. 1"X3/4" adapters, a length of 3/4" copper tubing, and a 3/4" tube cap, were used to construct the baffles for approximately $10 apiece.

The hex end of both adapters were cut off. The interior lip on the second adapter was filed off using a rat tail file so it can be slipped onto the tubing. Be sure to install the adapters onto the tube before cutting and reforming the tube per the original design. Six rows of holes (again per original design) were drilled into the tubing. The baffles are held together using plumbers solder. I don't believe the exhaust pipe will reach 380-400 F and melt the solder, but if necessary pop rivets can also be used.

The O.D. of this baffle tends to be a little larger than the I.D. of the exhaust pipes, so a little grinding will be necessary to hand fit the baffles to each exhaust pipe. Don't worry, the copper is soft and easy to file/grind and little need be removed to have a tight fit. Several 1" pipe threads will be left in the baffle exterior port after the hex end removal, but these can be put to good use if the baffles ever become stuck in the pipes. Just screw in a 1" pipe nipple and pull.

I haven't used these baffles for any extended length of time, but they appear to be sturdy and should hold up well. Obviously it will be easy to rebuild them with off-the-shelf parts in the future if necessary. They reduce exhaust noise substantially to a nice deep throaty sound.

Would appreciate any comments or questions.

[malcolmgb]

Thanks Hank this is a subject I am dealing with at the moment, your method has given a second option.
I chose to get steel tube similar to Honda size and will hopefully build some soon, can you tell me the size of the holes in the standard baffle please.

[Hank Dymale]

The drill holes appear to be 4mm. I used a 3/16 " drill bit. Don't have any metric bits.
Thanks for the comments.
Hank