Right side poping

silverclerk@gmail.com · Post by **silverclerk@gmail.com** » Fri Mar 25, 2011 5:12 pm

I havent cut the spark plug wires back but ill try that, thanks. Also, i will try to resetting the valves. I did put new coils in with no effect on anything but I figured I might as well. I will put the42 back in too and let ya' know.
As far as adjusting the air screw, even with it screwed in all the way there is still a popping.
Thanks guys
SC

LOUD MOUSE · Post by **LOUD MOUSE** » Fri Mar 25, 2011 5:14 pm

That carb with the screw all the way in should shut that cylinder off. .......lm

silverclerk@gmail.com wrote:I havent cut the spark plug wires back but ill try that, thanks. Also, i will try to resetting the valves. I did put new coils in with no effect on anything but I figured I might as well. I will put the42 back in too and let ya' know.
As far as adjusting the air screw, even with it screwed in all the way there is still a popping.
Thanks guys
SC

silverclerk@gmail.com · Post by **silverclerk@gmail.com** » Mon Mar 28, 2011 4:37 pm

Really? Sometimes when I screw it all the way in and then back it out slightly the bike will stall out. I have thoroughly cleaned the carbs and set the valves again. The bike starts and idles better, no popping or gurgling now on the idle. However, the popping has gotten worse when it is not in neutral and now pops on both sides. The compression seems good in both cylinders. I have not yet trimmed the plug wires back but will do that next weekend.

LOUD MOUSE · Post by **LOUD MOUSE** » Mon Mar 28, 2011 5:59 pm

Yes Really.
Somewhere ya will find that the Slow/Idle screw must be adjusted to Synchronize with the Slide Screw so ya have the air/fuel mixture balanced and all the Popping no matter where/when will be gone. ............lm

silverclerk@gmail.com wrote:Really? Sometimes when I screw it all the way in and then back it out slightly the bike will stall out. I have thoroughly cleaned the carbs and set the valves again. The bike starts and idles better, no popping or gurgling now on the idle. However, the popping has gotten worse when it is not in neutral and now pops on both sides. The compression seems good in both cylinders. I have not yet trimmed the plug wires back but will do that next weekend.

silverclerk@gmail.com · Post by **silverclerk@gmail.com** » Mon Mar 28, 2011 7:36 pm

OK, thanks. However, as per your tune up recipe one should not turn the slow/idle screw more than 1.5 turns out, right? However, no matter where I put it between fully closed and 1.5 turns out there is popping. Can having the left side adjusted wrong cause the right side to pop? Is there a method to setting these screws or is it simple trial and error until one experiences no popping?

LOUD MOUSE · Post by **LOUD MOUSE** » Mon Mar 28, 2011 9:04 pm

Is there a method to setting these screws or is it simple trial and error until one experiences no poppin
YA NEED TO BALANCE BOTH CARBS AND YES I SAY THAT BUT THAT ASSUMES YA HAVE ADJUSTED EACH CARB AT BIT AT A TIME AND THEY ARE BALANCED TO EACH OTHER AND ONE IS NOT DRIVING THE RPM MORE THAN THE OTHER.
THIS IS A TRY AND MISS AS YA LISTEN TO THE ENGINE/EXHAUST AND YA HAVE IT CORRECT. ..........LM

silverclerk@gmail.com wrote:OK, thanks. However, as per your tune up recipe one should not turn the slow/idle screw more than 1.5 turns out, right? However, no matter where I put it between fully closed and 1.5 turns out there is popping. Can having the left side adjusted wrong cause the right side to pop? Is there a method to setting these screws or is it simple trial and error until one experiences no popping?

silverclerk@gmail.com · Post by **silverclerk@gmail.com** » Tue Mar 29, 2011 12:24 pm

OK, so is it right that screwing the slow/idle screw in makes a leaner mixture? And screwing it out makes the mixture richer? Because I'm thinking if it is popping that means I need a richer mixture. After I've eliminated the popping then should I make the idle 800 rpm's or am I keeping the rp,s at 800 while at the same time adjusting the popping out?